simon says french food blog

Seoul, let’s eat!

 By François Simon

 
On the first day, a rather unremarkable experience in a trendy restaurant, Tani (+ 822.796.1244), that looks good enough but takes advantage of the local penchant for fusion (the dominant trend in Seoul) to pass off rather botched, slapdash dishes (a salad with heavily caramelized apples and croutons brushed with pesto). Nicely done black cod, good service, in an arty setting planted with trees. In Samcheong-dong, you’ll find much better at Bamboo House, justly reputed for its meat and fish barbecues. The in-crowd may come here to be seen, but that’s no reason to discount the quality of the products. Figure on 50 to 60 euros at both places.

 

Photos F Simon

La Poularde, in down-home France

By François Simon

If you’ve traveled across France, you may have sometimes spent the night in what was formerly a post house.  They’re just about everywhere.  Always in the center of town, right on the main drag, they embody the history of our country, an extraordinary heritage that’s quietly disappearing.
They’re often marvelous places.  Today, these hotels may not have a park, or a heliport, or a spa perfumed with ginseng.  But they’re still there.

Tonight, I’m in Monrond les Bains, near Saint Etienne.  The address is well-known: la Poularde.  The chef is a reference: Gilles Eteocle.  And yet, as the service begins the vast dining room is barely a quarter full. 

I chose the 99 euro prix-fixe menu.  It was truly a privilege.  A remarkable dinner marked by great attentiveness; squab terrine with foie gras, beef, cheeses, and a rather complicated but expertly crafted dessert.

Gastronomy is filled with cynical shooting stars – take the example of Gordon Ramsay at Versailles, skipping town after pocketing his stars and royalties – and that's all the more reason for us to seek out these places which are perhaps a bit outmoded, but which are sensational in their own setting.

It’s high time that you lend your support to these overtly luxurious places, sample their authentic cooking, and hold onto this France that is slipping through our fingers.
Hostellerie la Poularde, in Montrond les Bains 42210.Tel : 04.77.54.40.06.  (Affiliated with the chain Châteaux & hôtels collection)

Hostellerie la Poularde, à Montrond les bains 42210.Tel : 04.77.54.40.06.  Map

Châteaux & hôtels collection

Kong, only pour la vue...

By François Simon

Granted, Kong has undeniable appeal with its incredible glass-enclosed dining area overlooking Paris and the banks of the Seine – although you’ve got to be seated along the sides (be very sure to specify when making the reservation).  Otherwise, the welcome was a bit cold, the food was fine but rather ordinary (good purée), middling prices – it all works well enough and you wind up with an acceptable evening.  But nothing more.

Kong : 1, rue du Pont neuf, 75001 Paris (01.40.39.09.00). Comptez 60 euros quand même. Map

Photo F Simon

10.50 euros at la Vie en Fruits

Paris,

By François Simon

10 euros for lunch : My little promenade continues, this time with a set menu I discovered at La Vie en Fruits (Saint Germain). The lunch set menu at 7.50 euros does the job with a good carrot-apple-ginger juice and this salad with bulgar, carrots and some chicken. A bit filling, to be honest, but it works. I might have gone a little far by taking the dried fruits and nuts (3 euros). In any case, you receive a very warm welcome in this little place. There’s also frozen yogurt with fresh fruit at 3.50 euros and smoothies from 3 euros.

La Vie en Fruits : 116, Boulevard St Germain Tel : 01 46 33 48 18 Map

Photo F Simon

53 Passage, another success !

Paris,

By François Simon

 For hot new Parisian restaurants, there is no economic crisis. The most recent just opened in Passage des Panoramas, in front of the wine bistro Racines. What you get is simple and uncomplicated (vegetable platter, terrines, oyster and veal tartar). In the kitchen is a chef formerly of Aida, and in the dining room are a bunch of young go-getters.

A very nice wine list that’s short, but solid. It was impeccable the first night. Get moving.

53 Passage des panoramas Tel : 01.42.33.04.35. Figure around 30 euros. Map

Restaurant Paris 2

Photo F Simon

Woo Jung, Korea right in the kisser

Paris,

By François Simon

 This is without doubt one of the best Korean restaurants in Paris, offering a superbly done sea bream with vegetables that's particularly notable. 

It’s a good performance overall, with the exception of the rather stark lighting and slightly staid atmosphere . You’ll find a number of Koreans here (including some of the administrators of the Korean cultural center), which is always a good sign.  But certainly, there are more charming places in Paris.  I'll be following-up for you.... Figure on 40 euros per person.

Woo Jung 8, boulevard Delessert - 75016 Paris. Tél: 01 45 20 72 82 Map

Photo F Simon

10 euros at Rose Bakery II, perfection

Paris,

By François Simon

No kidding, for ten euros, it’s hard to beat Rose Bakery II.  A superb salad bursting with healthful goodness, packed with every salubrious thing that the earth has to offer at the moment. Beautiful vegetables, wholesome and seasoned perfectly, with, as the crowning touch, a dome of rice, peas, and cherry tree blossoms.
 
After that, I left sated (it’s a pretty deep bowl) and content.
 
My advice: as this address has already been discovered, the ideal approach would be to arrive at the very start of the service, because afterwards it gets unbelievably packed.

Rose bakery II, 30 rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris (01.49.96.54.01) Map

Restaurant Paris 3

Photo F Simon 

Caffé dei Cioppi, Italian restaurant of the month !

Paris,

By François Simon

You’re gonna like this one.  If I lived in the neighborhood, I’d keep my own personal napkin ring there (Translator’s note: refers to a now rarely-observed tradition in French restaurants whereby regulars would keep a personal napkin or napkin ring at the establishment, often in little cubby holes along the wall).  Delicious, warm and welcoming, here’s a place that will make you love restaurants again. Take note – it’s not big (it barely seats 15), but in return what a wonderful experience: lamb shoulder with carrots, with the shoulder delicately cooked; the carrots and a few onions accompanying the lamb, and a sauce that doesn’t overwhelm.  Indeed, it’s sufficient to respect a dish, to avoid hounding it, pestering it by adding all sorts of bells and whistles - no, you have to let it express itself, find its own path; what good does it do to interfere?  To over-embellish recipes is nothing but vanity. 

For an appetizer, mozzarella with translucent eggplant.  Frederica and Fabrizio watch over their clients out of the corners of their eyes.  When the lamb shoulder arrives, from off to the side comes the proposal, “You wouldn’t like a little chervil with that?” And bam, just like that a little saucer of freshly-cut chervil appears. 

Count on less than 30 euros per person.

Caffé dei Cioppi, 159, rue du faubourg Saint Antoine, 75011 Paris (01.43.46.10.14). Closed Saturday and Sunday, as well as Monday and Tuesday nights.Map

Photo F Simon

Versailles, Gordon Ramsay's imposture

Paris

By François Simon

I spoke recently in le Figaro about the discrete withdrawal of Gordon Ramsay from Trianon Palace in Versailles.

Did I say withdrawal? Let’s just say that the cooks haven’t seen the London chef very often since his arrival last winter. Not even the day the restaurant was accorded two Michelin stars.

When the Hilton group took over in February, Ramsay gave up his stake and now he only consults! That said, the cuisine isn’t undeserving - the Italian chef is quite competent.

So, the story could be said to have a happy ending. Still, it makes you reflect on the casualness, the cynical commercialism displayed by these chefs who love to preach and hire themselves out as fixers. Gastronomy remains a laugh riot, comical – and that’s why it gives us so much pleasure!

Trianon Palace Versailles : 1 Boulevard de la Reine  •  78000 Versailles Téléphone: (33)(1) 30 84 55 56. Web  Map

Photo F Simon

L'Entétée, a favorite of the foodies

Paris

By François Simon

It’s funny, but new places still regularly manage to slip into the already densely packed lineup of Parisian restaurants. There was Miroir in the 18^th arrondissement, then Glou, at 101, rue Vielle du Temple. 

And now there’s another to take note of : L'Entétée.  A vibrant and smart bistro turning out a feminine cuisine that boasts market-bought products (like this skate salad).  It’s good, and inexpensive (in the 30 euro range).  My recommendation of the day.  There’s a perfect table for four in the back next to the kitchen.  The wine list is rather short, though.

4, rue Danville 75014 Paris, tel : 01 40 47 56 81 Web Map

Ozu, nothing makes sense anymore

Paris

By François Simon

I had been told that Thierry Marx, the famous chef of Cordeillan Bages, was no longer affiliated with Ozu (2, avenue des Nations Unies; 01.40.69.23.90).  But I called his secretary, verified with his employees – he’s still there.  In fact, you’ll even find his name on the sign in the hall with the aquarium.  
 
The space is poorly lit, the lunch clientele seemed a bit uncertain of what they were doing there.  As for the welcome, it was nice enough, cheerful and efficient.  But the food!  Nothing.  Uninventive and uninspired.  I was stupefied.  The salad was unseasoned, the sushi so-so, the miso soup pitiful, the desserts insipid.

Indignation would certainly be in order, but one can only be heartsick in the face of such carelessness….

Ozu : Avenue des Nations Unies, Paris‎ - 01 40 69 23 90‎   Map

Photo F Simon  Restaurant Paris 16

The Crèmerie – I’ve got to stop

Paris

By François Simon

It’s funny. As soon as I like a place, I’ve got to go back and try it again. As if with each new visit, another truth will emerge. This tendency can no doubt be attributed to having lived with an art conservator.

Sometimes when she walked towards a painting, passing through the solvent vapors that hung in the air of the workshop where we lived, beneath one portrait would appear another, perpendicular to an earlobe, or a jewel. It’s a bit similar with a restaurant. At the moment, it’s Crèmerie.

Two times in one week – I promise, I’ll stop. It’s too bad, though – the burata (cow’s milk mozzarella) that will knock your socks off, the lovely Provencal vegetable gratin, the smoked tuna from the Île d'Yeu, the fresh goat cheese of Stéphane Baly, the excellent wines that will have you imbibing without restraint. Nothing complicated.

La Crèmerie 9, rue des Quatre vents, 75006 Paris (01.43.54.99.30). Closed Sunday and Monday. Open from 10am to 10pm.  Web  Map

Restaurants Paris 6

Photo F Simon

 

Tourte at Stella Maris and then sleep like a baby

Paris

By François Simon

I’m always a bit wary of returning to “fetish” restaurants.  And I’m especially wary of revisiting certain   dishes, like Tateru Yoshino’s game meat tourte (pie) at Stella Maris (4, rue Arsene-Houssaye, 75008 Paris; 01.42.89.16.22).  Ouf, it made quite an impression with its intense flavors of wild duck, pheasant, venison, foie gras and truffles, and especially the decadent sauce: prepared with red wine, game animal blood, and deer, pheasant, and duck carcasses.  After a meal like that, there’s nothing left to do but sleep like a baby.

Stella Maris : 4, rue Arsene-Houssaye, 75008 Paris. Tel : 01.42.89.16.22

 Map

 

The softness of the twilight: Casa Olympe

Paris

By François Simon

Good God, these pan-fried vegetables with bacon! Best dish of the week, and the crowning moment comes when you lick the casserole dish, the sauce thick and redolent.  This was at Casa Olympe. An impeccable meal that delighted everyone in my party: sole with thyme, scallops, chestnut galette (like a crepe, but made from buckwheat flour)…

48 rue Saint Georges, 75009, Paris Tel : 01.42.85.26.01  Web Map

 Photo François.Simon

Sheekey : London institution

London,

By François Simon

You'll find this London institution in an impasse off Leicester Square. At first, you hesitate, verify the address. Nope, this is it! Excellent fish with pearly white flesh (grilled eel, scallops), as well as meat (confit duck leg) and a vegetarian menu. The clientele and décor were unexpectedly chic. This is one of those addresses that you hold onto forever. So few tourists. Figure on 50£ (63 €).

J. Sheekey, 28, St.Martin's court, London WC2N (020.7420.2565) Map

French version  (Photo F.Simon)