simon says french food blog

New York - Hotel Chelsea - mythical and moth-eaten

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

New York's mythical Hotel Chelsea isn't intended for tourists, it's for pilgrims: Mark Twain, Tennessee Williams, Eugene O'Neill, Simone de Beauvoir, Vladimir Nabokov, William Burroughs, Andy Warhol, Leonard Cohen, Cartier-Bresson, Sid Vicious, etc. The guest book (dream on, there isn't one) would be the world's most stupefying. Anyway, reception is rough around the edges, the cleanliness is borderline grimy and the carpets worn out. It's best to stay in your fantasy world, conjure up silhouettes from bygone ages to roam the hallways, beached flower power peopled with friendly wrecks, dreamers in ironed jeans and unkempt pseudo-muses… Sometimes it's exciting to just sit in the lobby, but then the effect collapses like bad dope. A mind trip saved by your own mental images… Hotel Chelsea, 222 West 23rd St. (212) 675-5531; rooms starting at $190. www.hotelchelsea.com Map 
 

New York: L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon - a manicured cuisine

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

Dinner at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, just off the Four Seasons Hotel's main lobby, has become one of the city's finest dining experiences. Sitting at the Japanese-style bar - there are also tables in the dining room for those who prefer them - one discovers Joël Robuchon's new generation of dishes. We've moved from clockwork formalism (punctuation of the points all around the plate like the minutes of time he wanted to master) to a refined, aesthetically pleasing cuisine, almost a sublimation of the products. Expensive ($120), but memorable. The food lovers sitting at the bar rejoice, clearly won over.

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 57 East 57th St. (212) 350-6658. Map  

New York: Momofuku, 21st Century Asia

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

I was still in a huff about having missed my flight the day before over some absurd passport business. I spent 6 hours at police headquarters and the next day - zoom! Off I flew. When I arrived, Stephen, deputy editor of Departures Magazine, was waiting for me at Momofuku Ssams Bar to put the pedal to the metal.

I'd asked him for "a new gastronomic experience." The result was 21st century Asian fusion: salad with bacon and sprouts, little pork buns... Vast restaurant, calm around 2pm, but in the evening the place is hopping.

As you leave, don't forget to pop into the bakery next door. It's actually Momofuku's laboratory and I have to say the cookies are to die for; especially the "compost cookie" made of potatoes, chocolate, coffee, butterscotch… Bam! First knockout.

Momofuku Ssams Bar 207 2nd Ave, New York, NY (212) 254-3500.  Map

Ten experiences in New York, starting first thing tomorrow morning...

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

Dear friends, get ready for a taste of the Big Apple… Starting tomorrow morning, I'll tell you about a dozen gastronomic experiences in New York. I'll try to check out as many as I can: Corton, Momofuku, Omen, China Town, Katz's, etc. - and Joe Ray is doing the same. Who knows? Maybe we'll cross paths! Fasten your seatbelts, doors to automatic, crosscheck… Ready for take-off! (Photo F Simon from the 59th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel). 
 

Chez l'Ami Jean, calm seas…

By François Simon

PARIS,

Going to Stephane Jego’s l’Ami Jean is always a wild experience.
 
You’ve got to be in Olympic form, full of energy, and prepared to be a real man. Otherwise, believe me, you’ll leave with your head in your hands muttering, “Oh la la.” In other words, generous helpings of damn good food that hits all the high notes.
 
For cowards, however, there is a lighter option.  Lunch is perfect.  You can breathe, stretch out, and the food is just as good.  You start to realize that the dishes need a little space and calm to be appreciated.  Sure, I love the boisterous atmosphere of the evenings, and the mountain of calories you’ve got to climb before you’re finished, but sometimes a little peace and quiet is nice, too. 

L'ami Jean : 27, rue Malar, 75007 Paris . 01.47.05.86.90. Map

Chez Georges, rue du Mail, my guilty pleasure

By François Simon

PARIS,
 

I’ve been coming to Georges rue du Mail, near the Place des Victoires, for 20 years.  And I’ll admit it – I always get the same thing.  When I say always, I mean always, without exception.  Everyone has their little rituals that they won’t give up.  This is one of mine.  Rain, snow, or sunny weather like this evening in June: I’m there!  I love the place, especially the table in the entry near the window. 

It’s this kind of meal you think about when you’re out of the country.  As soon as I’m off the plane, I stop by to get myself back in the groove and give my stomach a treat.  A cheerful welcome, a high-flying clientele, upwardly mobile and hip…In the kitchen is Alain, from Bretagne, who I’ve gotten to know.  He’s going to retire soon, so get moving!

George : 1, Rue Mail, 75002 Paris‎ - 01 42 60 07 11‎ Figure 40 euros.  Map

Marco Polo, va bene

By François Simon

Paris

The Marco Polo, set back from the little square at carrefour de l'Odéon, has a good reputation. Expect Italian-style service: forced volubility buffered by high spirits and a clientele that seems to play along with the game.  Elsewhere, that's often all you get before they dish out the chow, but it’s not quite the case here: linguini à la poutargue stick to your ribs with joy and the tiramisu is decent, as is the house wine. A nice surprise.
Marco Polo 8, rue de Condé (01.43.26.79.63). Count on 35-40 euros. Map

The Lancaster: an ace up my sleeve…

By François Simon

Paris

Sometimes people ask me if I know a sure bet for "a really good dinner." I hesitate, go over all the great names - they're often booked for the best of them - or dull as dishwater for the others. Here's an ace I keep up my sleeve: the Lancaster. Never a disappointment…
The menu. The classification they devised is as brilliant as ever: sourish tinge of dairies, vivacity of wine, pungency of condiments, bright notes of lemons and citrus fruit… You have to admit that arranging dishes like that is quite a feat. It's even remarkably intelligent. Here's the hitch – when you choose a dish, even in a place this civilized, you're like a dog over its bowl. You can't remember more than two words. Picture this: as is often the case when the name of the dish drags on, you end up with a comical scene peculiar to restaurants: "Yes, umm… I'll have the… umm… What was it? The, umm, the periwinkles." Having said that, the pleasure of this cuisine, conceived by Michel Troigros and executed by Julien Roucheteau (fancy that - his name's on the menu! rare and impressive!) lies in its vivacity and incisive lightness, like the John Dory ‘petals’ in rhubarb sauce.
This was followed by a remarkable filet of brill poached in vegetable broth. In cases like this, you oh-so-delicately brush your napkin over your lips, like over a mirage. Excellent. Is it expensive? Taking a look at the bill this morning, The Lancaster is a bit on the steep side: 258€ for an excellent gastronomic experience and a fine bottle of Collioure (Schistes). The restaurant can also be much more affordable, particularly for lunch on the terrace. Do go.
Le Lancaster - 7, rue de Berri, 75008 Paris (01.40.76.40.18). Map

Hotel Arraya, the highlight

By François Simon

 

Without doubt the highlight of this little trip.  The village has a disarming charm : "le Fronton" a wall use for playing basque pelota, the terraces, the geraniums.  It’s true that in the summer it’s gets rather crowded.  But once the night rolls around, it’s idyllic. 
The hotel is ideally situated and offers beautiful terraces.  As for the food, it won’t have you doing somersaults, but you’ll find that will win you over immediately: the spirit of a beautiful 16th century Basque residence that’s passed from generation to generation. 
It’s the son of Jean Baptiste Fagoaga who welcomes you and presents you with a wine list that’s rather surprising, with bargain prices (a Sociando Mallet 2001 for 50 euros).  Nice dishes like the salad with lima beans and duck gizzards, then rabbit with honey sauce, and to finish off a curdled sheep’s milk crème brûlée, all in a menu at an unbeatable 23 euros.
Lovely rooms from 80 euros (ask for those that face the rear of the building, where it’s calm).  Exquisite breakfast, this is Basque country at its finest.

Bourg, 64310 Sare (05.59.54.20.46). www.arraya.com Map

Biarritz, les Rosiers, of course….

By François Simon

It’s funny, but sometimes the Michelin guide becomes so conventional in its judgments that it regularly runs into problems. The most flagrant example is in Biarritz where all of a sudden the worthy Sissinou has lost his star (which he never asked for), while the novice Rosiers has been awarded one just like that.

Andree and Stephane Rosier recently took over Les Platanes (formerly successfully presided over by Arnaud Daguin) and quickly got down to business by snaring a Michelin star. It should be said that the guide wasn’t taking much of a risk as Andree Rosier is the first woman to have won the title of “Best Worker in France,” which ought to guarantee a cuisine that’s technically proficient (although the pre-cooked risotto was served after 6 minutes instead of the required 22), and solid like this crab aspic (a little clumsily done, to be honest).

Pleasant for all that, like the service that’s just a smidgeon too familiar. Decent fish (monkfish piperade) but it’s missing that certain something you expect.

32, avenue Beau Soleil, 64200 Biarritz (05.59.23.13.68) ; www.restaurant-lesrosiers.fr  Map Figure 40 euros.

Hotel des Pyrenees, stuffy but good

By François Simon

 
After a period of disfavor this solid regional institution has emerged from the wilderness with two stars from the Michelin guide.  It’s a traditional address alternating between an exaggerated provincial formality and the youthfulness of a new generation, evidenced by the presence of Firmin Arrambide’s son Philippe, who’s come back home full of ideas and enthusiasm.
The dishes are turned out with a rare energy and the 40 euro prix-fixe is remarkable: asparagus soup, hake with mussels, and then a coffee parfait.  The à la carte menu is predictable but satisfying.  In the high season it gets quite busy (a bit too busy, in fact).
Overall, it still needs another shot in the arm to step completely into the 21st century. 
Les Pyrénées, 19, place du Général de Gaulle, 64220 Saint Jean Pied de Port (05.59.37.01.01) www.hotel-les-pyrenees.com. Rooms from 100 euros. Map

 

Photos F Simon

Hegia - with composers of melancholy and exuberance

 By François Simon

If you’re looking for an existential shock, a veritable gastronomic voyage, then you’ve got to reserve a stay at Hegia (only full room and board) with Véronique and Arnaud Daguin.

Spectacular countryside, a traditional house but definitely modernized with dazzling design in the rooms (check out the website, which shows off the results of architect Xavier Leibar’s collaboration with regional artisans), and an atmosphere enhanced by the music of Estonian composer Arvo Part, Eric Truffaz… In the evening, you dine in the kitchen in a little group (there are just 5 rooms), enjoying the exuberant, inspired creations of Arnaud that use market-bought products (freshly-caught fish, vegetables in abundance, poached foie gras etc…).

Véronique emerges from the cellar with wines precisely chosen yet entirely unexpected. Sumptuous nights spent in a glorious natural setting. Bliss. 650 euros for dinner, a room for one night, breakfast and wine, 600 euros from two nights.

Hegia : Kurutxetako bidea, Zelai 64240 Hazparne (05.59.29.67.86) ; Map www.hegia.com.

 

Basque country: the genesis of a dish

By François Simon

I’m happy today because I made a reservation at Auberge Basque.

Full disclosure: I’ve known chef Cedric Béchade ever since I was transfixed by his cooking at the Plaza Athénée in Paris. Afterwards we spoke on the phone and he let me know that he was leaving for the Pays Basque. Two years later, he opened his Auberge Basque.

For me, it’s the model of a successful, mature auberge that really hits the mark. You eat really well here, and of particular note is the exceptionally knowledgeable head sommelier, Samuel Ingelaere. The setting is superb, the rooms have a subtly modern décor.

Don’t think that Cedric Béchade has become a friend (we both have enough) - it's more of a cerebral rapport, exchanging thoughts and impressions; good conversations, that’s all. It was during one such discussion that he showed me how he sometimes conceives a dish: an outline, the shapes, ideas, principles.

But in the end my bill is paid in full – no conflicts of interest.

L'Auberge basque D 307, Vieille Route de Saint-Pée, 64310 Helbarron/Saint Pée sur Nivelle (05.59.51.70.50). Figure 45 euros, rooms from 90 to 250 euros. Worth noting is the 23 euro menu on Wednesday and Thursday for lunch. Web Map

Basque country, day one Chez Mattin: bingo!

By François Simon
 

Following my trip to Seoul (and during the wait before trips to Pouliguen, Sao Paolo, New-York and Hanoi), here’s an account of my little romp in the Basque country with five or six eminently recommendable places.
As soon as I arrived, I hopped in a rental car and headed off for lunch at Chez Mattin. If you're looking for pure, unadulterated authenticity in an atmosphere of real appreciation and enjoyment of eating, then this is your place.  There's a working-class clientele made up of sailors with sunburned faces, retired people with porcelain features, families and groups of friends.  Try the exquisite and famous le toro, a soup with a base of monkfish, mussels, and langoustines. Taste it with an eye towards appreciating the nobility of a concoction with a silky texture and seasoning that precisely accents the flavors.  It was enough to set my toes tapping.  I also had a coffee dessert that was awfully good…Always some nice surprises when you order off-menu.
Chez Mattin 63, rue Evariste Baignol, at Ciboure (05.59.47.19.52). Figure 30 euros. Map

Photo F Simon

 

Seoul : Benjamin Joinau’s Saint-Ex

By François Simon
 
Expatriate restaurants usually tend to grind out the same old tune.  That’s not true of Saint-Ex thanks to Benjamin Joinau, who has a deep knowledge of Seoul and Korea. 
 
You absolutely must read his Cahiers de Corée (Korean Notebooks), available in good bookstores.  He really knows his subject.  At the end of a long interview, he offers this thought that captures something fundamental about the city: Seoul is the way it is because its calm was stolen.  That says it all.
 
Yongsan-gu : 02 795 2465 www.lesaintex.com

Photo F Simon

 

Séoul : SoSonJae – simple and good

By François Simon

I found you another good one: fixed-price menu at 15 euros.  A little feast with in-season herbs and flowers, served in a home-like atmosphere that encourages you to let down your guard. 
 
Seven rounds that offered yet more proof that this is a cuisine that speaks as much to one’s head as to one’s stomach and body.  For me, it’s clear that Korean cuisine is among those that will soon be leading us around by the nose.  Like with Vietnamese cuisine, you’ve just got to find the right place, and then you’re all set!
 
Tel: 02 730.7002. Chongno-gu...
In fact, I’m giving up on providing you with the exact addresses.  It’s an absolute nightmare to get around in Seoul.  Addresses are useless (even the taxi drivers wind up looking silly) and there are traffic jams everywhere.

Photos F Simon

New Korean, bull’s eye !

By François Simon
 
Oh, this one’s a jewel.  At first glance I was a bit doubtful, to my discredit, because it really hit the mark, and with a fixed-price menu at an unbelievable price – 15 euros with dishes that show lots of loving care.
 
Five or six rounds – worthy of special mention are the oysters prepared with seeds, rice, delicious pork over a sweet potato purée – garlic leaves, pear and grapes and a dessert that was not bad at all (a concoction of coffee granité, chocolate and buttermilk: yummy).  On the way out?  Bowled over…that makes two times now.  
 
The chef is just a kid: Yim Jung Sik, we’ll be hearing more about him in the years ahead.  Maybe not in Paris, but who cares?
(02.517.4654)

Seoul, Nue-Joe – a real find !

By François Simon

I had a feeling it would happen, and voila a real find, Nue Joe, in the Insadong neighborhood.  With Sunny Ahn, Guwany Choi and Kim Mi Joung, who invited me, the meal unfolded perfectly, full of nuance, flavors and in constant balance, like this rice wrapped in a lotus leaf, hot and sweet and accompanied by grapes, onions and herbs, chestnuts and sweet potato. 
 
All for 25 euros!  You’ll stay glued to your seat in astonishment, as I was throughout the entire dinner, only shifting positions slightly like the Prada Transformer.

Photo F Simon

 

Seoul, at ten euros it’s easy on the pocketbook

 By François Simon

Strolling through the Shinsegae department store, I found a food garden on the 10th floor where 15 restaurants vie for clients.  As lunchtime rolled around, this one seemed attractive and welcoming.
 
For just a few wons, you get a little feast of sushi, barbecue and most importantly the perpetual rain of vegetables and roots that makes Korean cuisine a veritable fountain of youth.  I have rarely encountered on this earth a cuisine so oriented toward health and well-being.  Of course, the sushi wasn’t terrific, but everything had a nice vibe about it.  That’s it, I’m seeing the light, all the more so tonight at dinner with some real aficionados…

Seoul, a nice place for tea

By François Simon

Simple, a little dusty but very lively, this casual salon de thé happily hums along.  A nice ginger tea and afterwards the city goes down more easily. 

www.oldteashop.com  1F, 2-2 Kwan Hun Dong Chong Ro-Gu.

Not far away, being sold in the street, little pastries of pulled-sugar infused with a variety of flavors…

Photos F Simon