Paris,
What we find so wonderful about William Ledeuil's Kitchen Galerie is the blending of ideas. I defend this place, while certain specialists turn up their noses. Not enough of this, they say, too much of that. Whatever. The point is it's darned good, straightforward, plunging into different kinds of cuisine as one might clear branches from one's path in the forest.
It's hard to know if William Ledeuil has a particular aim in mind, since he doesn't speak. He acts. He prefers working in the shadows to the false glare of the spotlight, discretion to exhibition. He has no aspirations to preeminence. His dedication to his clients mirrors that of his waitstaff, and he chooses wines that suit his fancy rather than playing to the Gallery, even if it is that of the Kitchen. When you leave, you see more clearly. In my top 10 of the moment.
Ze Kitchen Galerie. 4, rue des Grands-Augustins, 75006 Paris, tél. : 01 44 32 00 32; Count on 50 euros per person. Web Map
i love your blog ~ honor and respect those who deserve it, and expose the divas who are legends in their own minds!
i ate at ze kitchen four years ago and it was wonderful!
Posted by: thomas newman, san francisco CA | 14 January 2009 at 04:08 PM