simon says french food blog

SEEN FROM ABOVE

By Joe Ray

NEW YORK CITY

Across from Buddakan, we seek solace on top of Hotel Gansevoort. Fat chance. Up top, a hundred drunk kids in Prada are dancing their brains out while some dude plays drums on a bucket to accompany some loud music. Fun for another night.

We taxi north, walk through the Hudson’s lobby and get in the elevator. It lets us out on a deck halfway up the side of the building and we find a quiet nook. The city floats so calmly at our feet, it doesn’t matter that we’ve ordered another incredibly expensive and poorly-crafted drink. We’re paying for the view and the calm.

Worth every penny.

Hudson Hotel - MAP
356 West 58th Street
New York, NY 10019, United States
+1 212-554-6000
www.hudsonhotel.com

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

HOT ICE IN RED HOOK

Red Hook, Brooklyn.

By Joe Ray

I was late for an interview at Fort Defiance.

I took the subway. I took a bus. I ran.

I was also hungry.

While I was running, I passed the Brooklyn Ice House and it was about that time when I smelled the barbecue.

The owner was sitting on a bench out front with some friends and I asked if I could get a quick pulled pork sandwich. Truthfully, the three of them looked so relaxed and friendly, I just wanted to sit with them for an hour.

The owner brought me inside - fantastic and saloon-like, a bar and a place to hang out. I watched a father and daughter sitting at in the corner, playing Rock’Em Sock’Em Robots.

My favorite part? At a serious beer bar, I asked what the owner would recommend to go with my sandwich.

“PBR”

Pabst Blue Ribbon.

She could have said something that cost twice as much - and I would have enjoyed it - but for a guy who’s running late and might not have a ton of time to appreciate what he’s eating, she stuck with something good. And cheap. My whole mini-meal cost $7. Woohoo!

Good thing she didn’t ask me to marry her.

Brooklyn Ice House - MAP
318 Van Brunt Street
Brooklyn
+1 (718) 222 1865

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

Chez l'Ami Jean, calm seas…

By François Simon

PARIS,

Going to Stephane Jego’s l’Ami Jean is always a wild experience.
 
You’ve got to be in Olympic form, full of energy, and prepared to be a real man. Otherwise, believe me, you’ll leave with your head in your hands muttering, “Oh la la.” In other words, generous helpings of damn good food that hits all the high notes.
 
For cowards, however, there is a lighter option.  Lunch is perfect.  You can breathe, stretch out, and the food is just as good.  You start to realize that the dishes need a little space and calm to be appreciated.  Sure, I love the boisterous atmosphere of the evenings, and the mountain of calories you’ve got to climb before you’re finished, but sometimes a little peace and quiet is nice, too. 

L'ami Jean : 27, rue Malar, 75007 Paris . 01.47.05.86.90. Map

BURGERS FOR BREAKFAST -- THE NEW YORK CITY BURGER ATTACK PART I

Manhattan,
By Joe Ray

“The Shake Shack?” asked a friend, “That place is a gimmick.”

I brought another friend when I went. We had burgers for breakfast.

That might be a bit of a stretch, but not by too much. We got there at around 11. On a nice day, the Shack has a line that stretches clear across Madison Square Park. I have no idea how long you’d have to wait, but I’ve got no desire to find out.

We ordered two cheeseburgers and two black and whites and, feeling generous, I told my pal I’d pick up the tab.

“Twenty three dollars,” said the woman at the register.

Ai-yeeee!

It’s still worth it as a special treat. Plus, it’s a good burger and I had struck out looking for really good burgers on a recent trip to the Pacific Northwest. It’s not perfect, but there’s a friend, a seat in the park and a happy mouthful.

Shake Shack - MAP
Madison Square Park (not to be confused with the faraway Madison Square Garden)
www.shakeshacknyc.com

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

Chez Georges, rue du Mail, my guilty pleasure

By François Simon

PARIS,
 

I’ve been coming to Georges rue du Mail, near the Place des Victoires, for 20 years.  And I’ll admit it – I always get the same thing.  When I say always, I mean always, without exception.  Everyone has their little rituals that they won’t give up.  This is one of mine.  Rain, snow, or sunny weather like this evening in June: I’m there!  I love the place, especially the table in the entry near the window. 

It’s this kind of meal you think about when you’re out of the country.  As soon as I’m off the plane, I stop by to get myself back in the groove and give my stomach a treat.  A cheerful welcome, a high-flying clientele, upwardly mobile and hip…In the kitchen is Alain, from Bretagne, who I’ve gotten to know.  He’s going to retire soon, so get moving!

George : 1, Rue Mail, 75002 Paris‎ - 01 42 60 07 11‎ Figure 40 euros.  Map

FIRST WE TAKE MANHATTAN

By Joe Ray

NEW YORK CITY

Celebrating Eating The Motherland’s 100^th (or so) post, we’re heading to New York!           

Want dining as entertainment? All the show you need is on display at Buddakan. Outed by “Sex and The City” and now (Fortunately? Unfortunately?) full of mini Carrie Bradshaws, I’m not normally a big fan of this form of pomp and glam, yet here I ate it up; it’s impossible to stand at the top of the stairway and not look slack-jawed into the dining pit.

For its part, the food is up to the task, but the food is not why you come. Buddakan is an East Coast cousin to Betelnut – the San Francisco beautiful people restaurant where I once worked as a cook – it’s high end Asian fusion that’s very well thought out like long beans with shrimp and soy and a rather exquisite Peking duck salad served French style with frisée and a poached egg.

There are a few cracks showing. A pricey martini arrives with miraculous speed from the packed bar yet it’s barely cold. I’ll leave more than half of it on the table at the end of the night.

Later, our astute waiter asks about our appetizers.

Me: I really liked the duck.

Him: Yes, the duck salad is quite good.

We both intentionally left out the short ribs.

These are quibbles. We were here for the show and got it in spades – Carrie might have to elbow her way back in, but she won’t be disappointed. Dinner also turned out to be rather reasonably priced for a special treat kind of place – about $50 per person with drinks and a doggy bag full of lunch for the next day.

 

Buddakan - MAP
75 9th Ave, New York, NY‎
(212) 989-6699‎
www.buddakannyc.com

 

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

 

Luberon: A Perfect Spot

By Christophe Doré

Provence 

I wasn't sure I wanted to share this address. I almost had to force myself to whisper it into the ears of a few dear friends…

First of all because Le Mourre is the story of a passion... For 15 years, Victorine Canac admired this farm house from afar until one day there was a knock at her door: "Do you still want to buy my house?" Then came the time for financing the project, clearing the gorgeous view over the medieval village of Oppède-le-Vieux and preserving the building's character from the craftsmen who are so used to stripping the walls to reveal the bare stone, since such is the fashion.

The place exudes sincere hospitality and a taste for sharing - particularly, their genuine love of local architecture, the land and what mankind does with it. Personally, I enjoy Le Mourre most in the spring or towards the end of summer, when the light is softer and the heat not so cruel.  

Owners Patrick and Victorine Canac are also baroque music aficionados. For years, they've organized the music festival "Les Musicales du Luberon" and host occasional concerts in their music room. Le Mourre’s single drawback? They're always packed. Be sure to book your reservations well in advance.

Le Mourre, Oppède-le-Vieux (04.90.76.99.31; www.lemourre.com ). Count on 170-270 € Map

Marco Polo, va bene

By François Simon

Paris

The Marco Polo, set back from the little square at carrefour de l'Odéon, has a good reputation. Expect Italian-style service: forced volubility buffered by high spirits and a clientele that seems to play along with the game.  Elsewhere, that's often all you get before they dish out the chow, but it’s not quite the case here: linguini à la poutargue stick to your ribs with joy and the tiramisu is decent, as is the house wine. A nice surprise.
Marco Polo 8, rue de Condé (01.43.26.79.63). Count on 35-40 euros. Map