simon says french food blog

Mirazur, the best of the French Riviera

Menton,

By François Simon

By Here there’s a chef, a real one - Mauro Colagreco, an Italian born in Argentina, who’s worked with many of the big names (Loiseau, Ducasse, Martin and especially Passard).  He turns out a cuisine of remarkable vivacity inspired by the Riviera, the ingredients bursting with flavor. 

His cuisine is astonishingly limpid, clever, and marked by a certain earthiness.  Colagreco is making his mark as a reference for the new generation.   With his garden, his citrus plants, and the flowers that he uses for more than decoration, he leads you into unknown territory where, strangely, you find the shadows of your memories.  Modernity with roots in the soil. 

Mirazur : 30, Avenue Aristide Briand - 06500 Menton - +33 (0) 4.92.41.86.86 - [email protected]. Tasting menu from 55 euros. Map  Web

Photo by Pim of chezpim.com

ISSAUTIER KEEPS UP THE FIGHT

Saint-Martin-du-Var, French riviera

By François Simon

Astonishingly, Issautier lost a Michelin star last year. There’s perhaps no point in whining over something that is ultimately of little importance for a great talent.  That talent, issuing from genuine pleasure, feeling and delight, is on display in this lively, vibrant, and affecting (if somewhat dated) place.

Here, when the chef proposes asparagus, it’s not like in Paris, i.e., served with a mango-ginger vinaigrette.  Definitely not.  Here, the portion is generous.  Not only are the asparagus plump, high grade and flavorful, just to be on the safe side they’re served with foie gras and shaved parmesan. One comes to this auberge for the challenge, to confront nature in all its extravagance: next up is the half-salted cod, and to drive the last nail in the coffin, a vegetable aioli.

Nobody talks about Jean-Fançois Issautier anymore. He’s no longer fashionable, no longer à la mode. All the more reason to pay him a visit.

Issautier, route de Dignes – Saint Martin du Var (83), RN 202 – Tel : 04.93.08.10.65. 100-150 euros Map

Photo : A. Kertész. La fourchette, 1928.