simon says french food blog

THE CREPE KING OF OYSTER CITY

CANCALE, France
By Joe Ray 

Dad, Jim and I leave the ladies to roam on their own for a bit and we head to the oyster stands to split a few plates, sitting on the sea wall and flipping the shells into the sea.

Later, we double back for lunch at the Breizh Café. With the mother ship here, and branches in Paris and Tokyo, this place is multiplying like, um, hotcakes and that’s not such a bad thing.

Bertrand Larcher serves classics with high-quality fillings or more creative combinations like my smoked herring, lumpfish roe and cream - smoky, salty and just a little sweet. Whatever you get, the buckwheat crepes are crispy on the outside, downy within.

Nobody at the table offers to share - a good sign - and we wash it down with a Fouesnant cider that has a wonderful, farmy funk.

I run out to feed the meter before the dessert crepes - chocolate and butter and apple compote, cider syrup and whipped cream - are ordered and return to two rather tiny wedges the gang has ‘saved’ for me. Not bad considering I had to push the idea of dessert on them.

After that, we go back out and have more oysters on the sea wall.

Not really. But we thought about it.

Count on 15-20€ with cider.

Breizh Café - MAP
7 quai Thomas
Cancale
+33 (0)2 99 89 61 76
www.breizhcafe.com

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the 2009 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year and author of the blog Eating The Motherland. Follow him on Facebook and on Twitter: @joe_diner.

DAD, TINTIN AND THE RESTAURANT ON THE BEACH

By Joe Ray
SAINT-MALO, Brittany

I’ve just made a mad dash inside the walls of Saint-Malo, trying to find a restaurant for my party five and left glassy-eyed. I’m sure some are fine, but most look like they’re made to accomodate the hordes that descend on the city in the warmer months.

“Bof!” the nonplussed French would say. 

Crestfallen, I meet the gang.

“There was a good-looking place back by the hotel,” suggests Dad.

The place near the hotel, are you kidding!?!? I think. I’m the food guy - I should be able to find something better…Except I had noticed that place and it’s getting late...

“Perfect! Let’s go!”

La Brasserie du Sillon, a 10-minute walk down the beach from the center of Saint-Malo is bustling when just about everything else out this way is quiet. The food will be good and after a week of translating menus for my folks and their friends, the service is blessedly, impressively bilingual. While there are several à la carte options and shellfish platters a gogo, there are good values in the 25 to 40 euro prix fixe menus. My favorite is the whopping raie à la Grenobloise, skate served in brown butter, capers, lemon and walnuts. Roasted, it makes the tip of the skate wing flip up like Tintin’s hair. Mom gets an Italian-themed salad with a great slab of cured ham and the best mozzarella I’ve had in France.

Good call, Dad.

La Brasserie du Sillon - MAP
3 Chaussée du Sillon
Saint-Malo
+33 (0)2 99 56 10 74
www.brasseriedusillon.com

Reservations recommended 

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the 2009 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year and author of the blog Eating The Motherland. Follow him on Facebook and on Twitter: @joe_diner.

"eating out" (2)

Le Palais – Belle Ile, France

By Joe Ray

I spoke too soon. Belle-Ile chef Pacôme Epron has brought me back in from the seawall with one dish.

Though the man has mastered roasting turbot at La Desirade, it was his dish based around cockles (cockles!) that brought me in. His recent millefeuille de coques, rosace de pomme de terre et courgettes au thym, jus viande au foie gras might be a little long in name, but what’s most important is the mix of cockles and meat jus. Some here will cry heresy at the idea of mixing of meat and fish, but theirs is a waste of hot air.

Pouring what tastes like the delicious fond from the bottom of a roast beef pan over the dish turns it from a dainty seafood course to something almost carnal – I wish I was eating this on a date.

Francois Mitterand might have preferred the frou-frou of the nearby Castel Clara (think: thalassotherapy, buffet tables and crisp white jackets), but I like Epron’s and La Table’s simplicity.

La Table de La Desirade – “Le Petit Cosquet – 56360 Belle-Ile-En-Mer - +33 (0)2 97 31 70 70

Map

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

“EATING OUT”

Le Palais – Belle Ile, France

By Joe Ray

Maybe it’s all the clean air, but I’m getting into this ‘lunch on the seawall’ idea. Perhaps it’s because everyone in Le Palais, Belle-Ile’s biggest town, shrugs when I ask for a good place to eat (there are a few), but I’m learning that while the towns are picturesque, people don’t leave “Le Continent” for the island’s social scene. It’s more about taking a long walk or watching the waves crash.

I realize this while leaning against one of the two mini-lighthouses (the red one) that mark the entrance to Le Palais’ tiny port. I’ve brought a baguette, a half-dozen plates (flat oysters) from Quiberon, a tomato from a little farm one side of the island and a pepper-coated dome of fresh goat cheese from a cheese maker the other. Here, this may be the version of "eating out" I like the most.

Map

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

Brittany takes centre stage! (3)

BRITTANY

By François Simon

The final stage of our little tour through Brittany on the route between Plomodiern and Nevez.

L’Auberge des Glazicks: Without a doubt our only disappointment. Why ? Under the direction of the family matriarch, the oppressive atmosphere of the dining room radiates with tension and manic tidiness rather than joie de vivre. The various dishes seem to indicate a neurotic fascination with mousses; the never-ending appetizers are served in homeopathic portions. After a while, you find yourself wanting to return to the unaffected Olivier Bellin, who’s had such a thrilling debut, and enjoy a working man’s lunch. That said, in everyone's opinion, this is one of the best restaurants in Brittany. Excellent and cheery sommelier.

About 75 euros. 7, rue de la plage - 29550 Plomodiern - Tel. : 02.98.81.52.32 Web Map

Le Bistrot de L'Ecailler : On the bank of the Aven River, one of the best price/quality deals in the area. With the 45 euro prix-fixe you’ll get a dozen Belon oysters N°5, a half-lobster with curry and home-made French fries, and sliced apples with vanilla ice cream and caramel butter. A distinguished clientele in a classy, tranquil setting marked by an effortless professionalism.

Port de Kerdruc - 29220 Nevez – Tel : 02.98.06.78.60 Map 

Keep an eye on these other addresses:

La Maison Baron-Lefevre : 33, rue de Rieux, 44000 Nantes – Tel : 02 40 34 15 93.

La Coquille : Quai Moros, 29900 Concarneau – Tel : 02 98 97 08 52.

Régis Restaurant : 24, place de la Gare, 56000 Vannes - Tel. : 02 97 42 61 41.

Domaine de Rochevilaine : Pointe de Pen Lan, 56190 Billiers - Tel. : 02 97 41 61 61.

And accommodations to help you prolong a pleasurable trip:

DOUARNENEZ, Hôtel Ty Mad Above the bay, a large guesthouse whose former inhabitants include Georges Perris, Max Jacob and other notables. Cozy bedrooms with a contemporary decor, art gallery. Around 100 euros. Place Saint-Jean, Treboul, 29100 Douarnenez - Tel. : 02 98 74 00 53 Map

SAINTE-MARINE, Villa Tri Men Another beautiful, quaint villa that’s been brought up-to-date, with first-class rooms and magnificent views. Starts at 160 euros in low season, 230 euros in high season. 16, rue du Phare, 29120 Sainte-Marine Combrit - Tel. : 02 98 51 94 94.

LE TRONCHET, Le Mesnil-des-Bois. Robert Surcouf once lived here. These days this restored 16th century manor house offers five very quiet and civilized rooms. From 90 to 105 euros. Martine and Jean-Jacques Vilette, 35540 Le Tronchet - Tel. : 02 99 58 97 12

THE BUTTERED ONE

QUIBERON

By Joe Ray

A Provencal friend of mine who claims to be ‘allergic to butter’ would perish in this town. Good thing she’s not here – more for me! Last night I had wonderful crèpes at La Duchesse Anne where melted butter is brushed on the hot galette (a crèpe made with buckwheat flour) before the ingredients are added and often brushed again before the finished dish goes out to the floor.

This morning, I stopped at the Boulangerie Bihan “Trois Marches” and picked up a pair of kouign amann – Breton for “cake” and “butter,” though they should have also added Breton for “lots of extra sugar,” which caramelizes around the whole thing and makes life good. Though they’re not particularly large, I learned that eating two is a bit like trying to  get through an entrecôte pour deux personnes alone.

Luckily, my arteries and I were up for it. There’s a moment of crunchy, sugary goodness where your teeth stick together, then all at once, the butter gives up the ghost and becomes a liquid, full of so much flavor, I giggle.

Later, on the train back to Paris, I tasted another kouign amann that I brought from Quiberon’s famous Maison Riguidel - touted to be the city’s best. These were excellent – flatter and more cake-like in form, but Boulangerie Bihan’s got them beat, hands down.

SPECIAL NOTE: People of Quiberon, unite! Go to the Boulangerie Bihan (where I found my favorite kouign amann) and encourage the good woman running it not to close the bakery doors for good following the death of her brother the baker – she’s kept on running the bakery, but is talking of shutting it down within a month, taking one of the city’s tiny treasures with her.

Boulangerie Bihan “Trois Marches” 34 rue de Verdun QUIBERON – 02.97.50.14.96 Map

Crêperie Duchesse Anne - 10, Place Duchesse Anne QUIBERON 02 97 30 49 33 Map

Maison Riguidel – 38, Rue de Port Maria, Quiberon. 02.97.50.07.41 Map

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray writes is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

SARDINE IS NOT A FOUR-LETTER WORD

QUIBERON

By Joe Ray

After three and a half hours on an early train from Paris and another hour on the bus, the idea of sitting around tourists and retirees in a restaurant didn't really float my boat. Returning from a meeting to set up an outing with a gooseneck barnacle fisherman, I walked right in front of the solution: La Belle-Iloise cannery.
Five minutes and a six-can variety pack of sardines later – everything from the little silver fish marinated in muscadet to two peppers, olive oil and lemon – I was in business. Sitting on the seawall, I ate a tin of sardine à la tomate served on pain Poilâne that I smuggled from Paris. Though there's a fierce debate as to whether La Belle-Iloise or La Quiberonnaise makes the better sardine it didn't seem to matter; in the space of five minutes, three people walked by jealously eyeing my picnic and smiling. One guy even offered up a "Bon Appetit!"
On the bus, I had listened to an interview with Alice Waters who extolled the virtues of both cooking and eating with friends, yet here I was, straddling the seawall myself, getting a sense of place from a can.

Joe Ray is the author of the blog, Eating The Motherland and contributes to the Boston Globe's Travel blog, Globe-Trotting

Brittany takes centre stage ! (2)

We continue our tour of Brittany, a booming region. All this fresh air makes you feel good, the sort of oxygen that clears of our little habits and sweep away our prejudice. Let’s stop in Lorient and Quimper to continue our adventure.

L’Amphitryon

One of the best places in Brittany with Jean-Paul Abadie in fine form with refined, upper iodine flavoured Breton cooking. There is genuine happiness increased thanks to his wife, an energetic wine waitress.

127, rue du colonel Muller - 56100 Lorient - Tel : 02.97.83.34.04

Web Map

Henri & Joseph

Every day, Fabienne and Philippe Le Lay propose a single menu (48 euros for dinner and lunch starts at 22 euros) with the top Breton products such as the rock sole or lobster served in this now usual style between tradition and modernity.

4, rue Le Bourgo - 56100 Lorient - Tel : 02.97.84.72.12 - Closed on Sundays

Map

Cosy

In a pedestrian street, a little house with bio-inspired food on the menu cooked by a young female restaurant owner. Crayfish marinated with spices, duck with honey, andouillette… Simple and efficient. Around 15 euros.

2, rue Sallé - 29000 Quimper - Tel : 02.98.95.23.65

Map

I also keep an eye open one those :

La Coquerie - Hôtel le Coq-Gadby, Marc Tizon, 156, rue d’Antrain, 35700 Rennes. Tél. : 02 99 38 05 55.

La Taupinière - Guy Guilloux, Croissant Saint-André, 29930 Pont-Aven. Tél. : 02 98 06 03 12

Hôtel restaurant de la Bretesche - Domaine de la Bretesche 44780 Missillac. Tél. : 02 51 76 86 96

La Table des Marées - Philippe Bogaty, 16, rue du Jeu de Paume, 56400 Auray. Tél. : 02 97 56 63 60.

La Voile d’Or - 22240 Sables-d’Or les Pins. Tél. : 02 96 41 42 49. Le Bretagne - 13, rue Saint-Michel, 56230 Questembert. Tél. : 02 97 26 11 12

Brittany takes centre stage !

Brittany today ? A real big bazaar ! It’s about time. She was asleep, still dreaming, quite indifferent. Just like a good old dog near the fireplace. The external world reinforced it in this feeling. She watched the stars speeding along with the sneering tiredness of martyr saints.

There had been Paineau, in Questembert, who tried to rebel, to attack and make a stand. But it was written in the genes of this modest country that she should wait with this holy exasperation. Fortunately came Roellinger. Three stars coming shamefully late, it was enough to have get the message across. Brittany could then exist, move on and keep its original celtic pride.

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Today, there are changes in every way. Sometimes they are glorious and dynamic, other times we have the feeling of being anywhere with anything (mimetism is a slave). But, in the main, what is new in the West, is this unexpected good mood. Bretons were supposed to be a bit taciturn. This is false, they are very happy to live, with clear ideas. It’s very simple, now, everywhere in Brittany, we eat well, we laugh, we enjoy. Here are a few good addresses sculpted in the standing stones.

And others tomorrow and again the day after tomorrow. Is this ok for you ?

(Picture : Eric Guerin)

La Mare aux Oiseaux

Injustice reinforces innocence. The real blunder of the 2008 Michelin Guide, is to have taken away the star to this highly worthwhile place. Eric Guérin (see photo) cooks with noble brightness, connected with high class regionalism and a light and playful modernity. One of the great surprises of this trip. The menu starts at 38 euros. There are ten bedrooms available to continue the pleasure from 130 to 160 euros.

Ile de Fedrun - 44720 Saint Joachin - Tel : 02.40.88.53.01

Web  Map

Le Coquillage

Ok, we harass you with this address, but this is a great place to shout about, overflowing with goodness. True Breton cooking in a magnificent setting. You can’t find better. Menus at 29 euros and 56 euros.

Route du Mont Saint Michel - 35350 Saint-Meloir-des-Ondes - Tel : 02.99.89.25.25

Web Map

Youpala

Bistrot Lunching in a place bustling with huge groups of work colleagues can normally spoil a restaurant. Not in this case, it would take more to disturb Jean-Marie Baudic’s enthusiasm. He makes, to be exact, popular, creative and playful food. One of the most dynamic adresses in Brittany.

Formulas for lunch starts at 12 euros. Menu around 45 euros.

5, rue Palasne de Champeaux – 22000 Saint-Brieuc - Tel : 02.96.94.50.74

Web Map

Brittany : a lost Cicada

Sometimes, a place may catch you unawares.That is in fact what we expect from gastronomy. Getting seduced, being trapped, to let it go. It was early May.

When we booked at the Cigale égarée (lost Cicada) in Quimperlé. You’re going to quibble about lots of small details, but sometimes we must forget the fuss of modern cooking : deconstruction, defragmentation. With a bit of heart, you manage to locate a feeling. Here, it flutters almost everywhere among the minicreations, such as a soup of peas with mint, fried andouille (sausages made with chitterlings); then it appears in a (true) meal like the roasted pork with red pepper sorbet. The meal continued with some nicely made languid desserts : crème brûlée, fondant au chocolat. Always in small portions. We’ll have to get used to it, reshape this “freely expressed” version of cooking. I agree with you, it’s not funny, but it’s so. When we left, we faced a joyous rain shower (the talent of Brittany).We welcomed it with this kind of inexplicable felicity of the rare moments.

La Cigale égarée – Trevoazec Villeneuve Braouic – 29300 Quimperlé Menus start at 21 euros (lunch). Closed on Sundays and Mondays and (sometimes) during bank holidays Tel : 02.98.39.15.53.

Web Map

Le Benetin, just another touch of Brittany

Another small tour in Brittany, to be exact on the way between Cancale and Saint Malo, one of the most beautiful secondary roads in France.What a pleasure! Foaming with goodness. Towards Rothéneuf, le Benetin. Unexpected and particularly delightful, this place, which is annouced to close next September (but to be replaced with Acqua e farina, 6 rue des Cordiers – 02.99.56.28.37 – opening on June 10th), remains open above a magnificent sight; terrace and cooking which is more than pleasant (menus starting from 12 euros for children, 20 & 35 euros).

Le Benetin - 4, Chemin des Rochers sculptés, Rothéneuf – 02.99.56.97.64.

Web   Map

In front, we can see these famous sculpted rocks, a kind of devout insanity from a man, harassed at the time by the bishop when he spoke in defence of the workers of the forges of Paimpon.