simon says french food blog

Is Paris The World Champion of Gastronomy?

By Joe Ray
PARIS

That's the question French food critic Francois Simon posed to a little panel: Nick Lander, Carlo Petrini, Ken Hom, Anissa Helou, Yumiko Inukai and...yours truly. For a recent article in Le Figaro's magazine, Figaroscope.

Here's my response in Version Originale...

World capital? That's loaded question.
Twenty years – even 10 – ago, the question was bandied about for fun but we already knew the answer, but now, just using the places I know well, it’s a legitimate debate. Barcelona combines an unquenchable curiosity and solid base to keep themselves on cuisine’s front edge. Sicily combines incredible raw ingredients with solid value and New York could win on sheer numbers yet it is Paris’ equal in quality and exponentially more diverse. India is a time machine whose cuisine never ages.

Plus, in Paris, coffee is awful and the beer second rate. It’s also pricey. That said, you forget all problems instantly when the former butcher who can hold four bottles of wine in one hand and owns Le Severo puts a côte de boeuf aged 40 days under your nose. You forget it when Pierre Gagnaire boils down a great vat of red wine to make a tiny component of a sauce. You forget it when Laetitia at Le Bistro Paul Bert greets you with a smile, seats you at your favorite table and gifts you with a glass of wine and when it comes to choosing a bottle of wine doesn’t foist something you can’t afford on you. You forget it when three bottles, two glasses of Calvados and one conversation into a meal, you realize with a start that it’s 5 a.m. and you’ve been at the table for nine hours.
Undeniable world champ? Not anymore. However, the French exception still reigns. Let’s call Paris first among equals.

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is a Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year and author of the blog Eating The Motherland. Follow him on Facebook and on Twitter: @joe_diner. 

 

My Debatable Fondness for the Armani Caffe

By François Simon

PARIS

I was going to say, "I know this place by heart," which is oddly untrue because I should, actually. But I've got a feeling that my liking for the Armani Caffe probably irritates some of you. Too expensive (I'll grant you that), too many spoiled brats (ok, we could add too many spoiled parents), too much bling and that's not all!

So what? I like it when a place is a bit "too much" because you can never get enough. Having said that, the dishes are rigorous, frequently good and I am nuts about their ice cream. They serve it like "crème glacée,"slightly soft, not hard as a rock. The wines are convincing. So much so that if I ever get squashed on the boulevard, you'll know why.

For the time being, I managed to make it to the opposite sidewalk with overwhelming literary enthusiasm; the next morning, I discovered a huge bag from La Hune bookstore on the table. What was in it? The latest Pascal Quignard ("La Barque silencieuse"), Hiromi Kawakami ("Manuzaru," edited by Piquier; I loved the previous books, "The Teacher's Briefcase" and "The Nakano Thrift Store"), Laurent Mauvignier ("Des Hommes"), Bernard Chapuis ("Le Rêve entouré d'eau") and Yannick Haenel's latest: "Jan Karski," devoured in just two days. And a book by Jules Renard.

Armani Caffe : 149, Boulevard St Germain, Paris 6‎. Tel :+33 1 45 48 62 15 Map

VICTOR - MANY HAPPY RETURNS

By François Simon

PARIS

 

It's funny, I've been here before ... have I told you about it? Victor is well done and warm, with a bistrot-style menu. My friends and I discovered a fantastic blood sausage pastry and a fine “onglet” steak. A delicious interlude with a few good bottles (a Croze-Hermitage from Graillot) and rather sexy clientele! If I lived in the neighborhood, I think I'd come on a regular basis. Victor has also just opened a similar place called Felix (99, rue Jouffroy d'Abbans, 75017 Paris; +33 1.42.27.26.16).

Victor MAP
101 bis, rue de Lauriston
 75017 Paris
+33 1.47.27.55.07

THE PARIS CLUB?

 

Americans in Paris may enjoy checking out Francois’ entries on the French side of Simon Says - he’s on assignment to track down the best club sandwich in Paris - here and here - go figure.

Anybody out there know better? Or should we just send him to an American diner? Agawam anyone?

- Joe

NEW - M64 - NOT BAD... NOT BAD AT ALL

By François Simon

PARIS

Quickly making a name for oneself in the hotel/restaurant business isn't easy. Customers first tend use the restaurant as a hideaway to do business, rarely paying attention to the food. You're correct in thinking that the chef does everything he can to content moderate and finicky appetites while offering something memorable and innovative. This place is rather good. Not cheap, but they do have a 35 euro "Menu Passage" that's just perfect!

 

M64 - Map
Hôtel InterContinental
64, avenue Marceau
75008 Paris
+33.1.44.43.36.50). 

 

The Wepler: I may well go back anyway!

 By François Simon

PARIS

A leisurely visit to the north of Paris, and suddenly, an urge for a seafood platter overwhelms me. I like the Wepler for the atmosphere, but when it comes to seafood, just between you and me, I prefer Garnier, particularly for its oyster bar. When the weather's cold, with a glass of ice-cold Muscadet, it's simply delightful...

At the Wepler, tonight, the seafood platter seemed to take forever to reach our table. A good half hour! As we waited, we emptied the breadbasket, played with the bread and fiddled with the wine bottle. It was a relief when a platter appeared at the end of the aisle. Alas, it was for the table next to ours. When our platter finally did arrive, we were ready to suck on the ice! Having regained our composure, we found the platter was negligent in the discharge of its duties, not brilliantly fresh, a bit apathetic. The langoustines were a bit dry, though they seemed to be dance with their claws spiked to their tushies. The oysters, at least, were spirited and proud to carry the day, while the spiral-shelled whelks were a bit old looking and the shrimp simply unfit for play.

Luckily, the crab was there to liven us up, get us gnawing and fuel our impatience. As for desert, things were much the same: the meringue glacée was icy-cold, but the meringue was practically reduced to powder. As for service, I'd call it a foul. Everything came late. But what really took the cake was the last glass of wine I ordered towards the end of the seafood platter, which arrived… after the bill - where it appeared, of course.

With three kids and a single dessert, it's expensive, quite expensive: 184,30 euros! Want to know the worst part? I may well go back anyway! Sigh…

Wepler, 14, place de Clichy, 75018 Paris (+33) 1.45.22.53.24. Map 

Opportun: reality check

By François Simon

PARIS

When the biting cold starts nipping at Parisian ankles, nothing beats a meal that's fit enough for a barbarian and hearty enough for a Hun to invigorate you. I crave comforting addresses, places where the table is dense, shameless and saucy. Our capital is riddled with these grottos, solidly secured to the rock. But watch out – they mean business. To catch the boss's eye, you have to weigh 200 lbs. and really be able to put it away. That suits me fine...

 The waiter insisted we taste the ravioli salad. My theory is that this was a guileless suggestion, due only to some opportunity at the morning market. We went ahead with the splendidly failed and shriveled ravioli dragging their greasy resentment through an acceptable salad enlivened with pine nuts that almost saved the dish.

The steak tartare is thriving and abundant, appropriately seasoned, catches your attention and proves very tasty. It sticks to its intentions, pirouettes… Extremely pleasant with choice beef from a first class butcher, Hugo Desnoyer. The French fries were hopeless. A disaster. They'd been handled most carelessly and that's no way to treat the fundamentals… A crying shame. It's kind of sad to see a place that collects quality labels and press clippings treat such an easy dish offhandedly, wouldn't you say? Not to mention that it's quite unexpected. The apple tart also has a hard time mustering a semblance of taste. It, too, seemed struck by a sort of loss of consciousness. For 111,50 euros, that's barely passable.

L’Opportun, 62, boulevard Edgar-Quinet, 75014 Paris

+(33)1.43.20.26.89 Map

Thoumieux: all for the best

By François Simon

PARIS

Jean-François Piège left the Crillon to settle in at Thoumieux armed with an iron will and, more importantly, a palpable desire to do battle with gastronomy. Of course, some of you will once again deplore the Costes style, but what can you do? I find it delightful: pretty girls, and waiters who ply their trade with pride…

The dishes and prices fend for themselves: 10 euros for a warm endive salad with cheese and lightly smoked ham. Right up my alley! Barely "snacked" brill filets and a jardinière from "Joël's" (21 euros). Perfect. Churros and baba au rhum from Millet's, along with cheeses from Bordier's at 8 euros. Banana and lime vacherin that leaves you swinging from the chandeliers…which are attached to a lovely, freshly remodeled 1940's ceiling.

A wine menu worthy of the name, crunchy-crusted quality bread, real napkins… It shouldn't be long before the profession shows up to steal ideas and I'll be only too pleased! Maybe Parisian brasseries will finally be revived, start bubbling over with mirth and attracting the throngs and pretty girls again. Thoumieux's soul had slipped away, but it's back! Surely, this is among the best news of the season.

Hôtel Thoumieux, Jean-François Piège/Thierry Costes.
79, rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris. Phone : +33 1 47 05 49 75.
Open everyday from 12 pm to 2:30 pm and from 7 pm to 10:30 pm, soon to be noon to midnight non-stop. Map

Taking a Breather at Rose Bakery (My Life, Users Manual)

By François Simon

PARIS

You must be asking yourself how I manage with everything I put away. Excellent question to which I apply myself daily. First of all, never two gastronomic meals in the same day. If there's a big meal ahead, I clearly mark out the path with a kindly lunch, like here at Rose Bakery, rue des Martyrs in Montmartre (46 is the street number).

I seek indulgent nourishment and when my appetite is satisfied, I stop. Nothing between meals (an apple if I'm feeling a bit drained), no wine at lunch, no bread (or almost no bread), no dessert in average restaurants (unless they're extravagant) and no spirits (don't like the stuff). And when it's really good, I drink, mop up sauce with bread and eat heartily. By riding my bicycle daily, I can still wear the same suits I wore twenty years ago.

Does that sound ok? No diets. I'm just constantly vigilant so I can feel free to cut loose without any restraint at any moment.

Rose Bakery : 46, rue des Martyrs Tel : 01 42 82 12 80 Map

Rose bakery 2 : 30, rue Debelleyme. Tel :01 49 96 54 01 Map

Tartar so chic at 1 Vendôme

By François Simon

PARIS

Have you seen the beef tartar (22 euros) at 1 Vendôme?! Over-chic, a bit on the kooky side I must say, palatable and all that in a setting that's been brought up to date. I was dreading that this hideout might be outed by untimely advertising, but so far… it's still calm. In a month, FOR THE CHRISTMAS BREAK, FOR CHRISTMAS SHOPPING? it'll be as calm as the glassy sea. I bumped into an old friend there, Nicolas Rey, who was in great form. Just what I needed to brighten my day.

1 Vendôme 1, place Vendôme +33 1 55 04 55 55 A la carte: 70-80 € Map

Last Hours in New York

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

The party's almost over, it's time for me to leave New York. A visit to the Lowell Hotel (Member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World; 28 East 63rd St.; (212) 838-1400; www.lowellhotel.com), conveniently located just off Central Park, tucked away in a tree-lined enclave - is profoundly comfortable with a fireplace in certain rooms. There’s also a visit to Zabar's (2245 Broadway, between 80th and 81^st St.; www.zabars.com): an Aladdin's cave of cookware - highly recommended by our friend Gould. Thank you! Feeling petered out, hot and somewhat homesick … 

NYC: At The Four Seasons Restaurant, Taste the Sweet Thrill of Power

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

Here, you are at the foot of the Seagram Building (99 East 52nd St. and Park Ave.; (212) 754-9494), a prime example of the influence the Bauhaus had in New York. Here, you'll see only extremely serious looking gentlemen, the egghead type, admirably boring (very few women); they're probably congressmen, mayors… These are the characters who fall victim in our fantasy scenarios to corruption, violent death and perverse girlfriends They're gathered around very classical dishes like this wild salmon; the fish, at least, is quite honorable.

I was delighted by this episode because it carried with it a sort of irresistible atmosphere - the feeling of power or something like that - and I enjoy approaching it and feeling its sweet thrill. The setting is magnificent, though the grill is much nicer with the bar. The restaurant - on the other side - is more academic

Map  Web

New York: Lunch at the MoMA

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

This Sunday morning had a funny little taste to it. I found myself roaming the streets for hours. The rain stopped and out came the sun with its sticky thickness. I took shelter in the Museum of Modern Art, jumping from one room to the next to avoid groups and caterpillar-like queues before dropping into the museum restaurant.

At first, I regretted not having gone to the dining room that offers a view of the gardens. That's where you'll find the gastronomic restaurant ($ 55 for lunch; (212) 333-1220). I actually sat at the bar. Much better as it turned out with its fashionable small-plate snacks like this vegetable-lobster verrine. It was perfect.

I left feeling revived, all the more so because I'd found my lost copy Tom Wolfe 's "From Our House to Bauhaus." Then, I stopped by Tiffany's and came across a very funny elevator attendant. A man distractedly walked in and pushed the number for his floor – the 3rd floor. Expression of surprise on the capped employee's face: "Why don't you go ahead and push all the buttons… Want my cap, while you're at it?" The daydreamer looked stunned, the elevator car audience was delighted.

Map www.themodernnyc.com

New York: Clean-Cut Corton

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

The most sought-after table in New York is called Corton and you immediately know why: a refined cuisine that delivers smart clarity free of any aggressiveness: vegetable salad, variations on lobster and a deconstructed Vacherin enhanced by litchi, honey and earl grey… The customers are reserved (a nice change from the vociferating hordes) and the wait staff anxiously watches over the tables. There's no denying that they're doing their utmost…

Corton: 239 West Broadway;  (212) 219-2777.  www.cortonnyc.com Map

New York: A hidden address where one night Madonna…

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

After dining at Locanda Verde, I went for a long walk through the city. New York City gives you the urge to walk for hours. Sometimes I stop only after three hours, feeling satiated. I didn't want to go back to the hotel, I was expecting more from the city. So I went for a late dinner. Prosper and Martine Assouline had mentioned a place not in the guidebooks: Monkey Bar (60 East, 54th St.; (212) 308-2950). I strolled in and was lucky enough to get a table. I liked the restaurant, not for its gastronomic interest, but for its handsome atmospheres. Frédéric Malle told me that the last time he went there, the dining room - which usually rustles copiously - suddenly went silent. Madonna was walking in. That evening I kept silent, but she never came. I was happy sitting there, with my river salmon and my glass of Italian white. I needed nothing more… except maybe Truman Capote, de George Plimpton, an "oral biography," meaning a succession of personal accounts. Truly good reading. Leaving, I photographed the stairs then headed for bed.

Map

 

New York: Locanda Verde - Italy goes green

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

The crowd was wall-to-wall at Locanda Verde tonight (377 Greenwich St.; (212) 925-3707). I showed up early - 7 p.m. -to be sure I'd get a table and chose a seat at the bar for a sweeping view of the bustling restaurant. It was a gorgeous day and the light poured into this vegetable centric restaurant - as many Italian restaurants are these days. You get colorful and exuberant dishes like the one shown here. After strolling the neighborhood at sundown, I downed a glass of wine went off to seek further adventures.. Map

New York: Trapped by my own foolishness...

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

I was tempted to keep this one to myself, but what the heck… Truth is I enjoy walking in the footsteps of the people I like during my travels. This time, in New York, I could have filled a bus with people I like, and the writer Tom Wolfe would have been among them. You know, a dandy, always dressed in white, a bit of a poser but a fantastically talented novelist. I like the guy. I tried to make an appointment with him, but he's writing at the moment and it couldn't be done. No matter.

I did however go to one of his secret boutiques, a place called Tender Buttons (143 E 62nd St; (212) 758-7004). They have thousands of buttons to choose from and cufflinks as well. I walked in cautiously and, after a few circumlocutions, found myself gazing down at the cufflinks: blue enamel, moons and stars. His! I'll be... The owner looked at me as if to indicate they weren't cheap. Who did he take me for? Well, I mumbled in English, nay my good fellow, wrap those up for me, will you… I ended up with a bill for an amount I will keep to myself following my piece about the Subway franchise and poverty. To be honest, I walked out of there wiped out but quite pleased!

Map

 

If you like dim sum, make reservations now!

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

 

I was beginning to stagger and chant to myself  "No, no, no, no…" when Jeffrey pushed me into a dim sum restaurant called China Town (380 Lafayette street, (212) 533-7000).

 

People know him there, so the chef arrived his eyes glowing with delight and asked us to trust him - I know this sort of diabolical setup only too well! Sure thing: five minutes later the table was covered with all sorts of extraordinary food. The chef's name is Joe Ng and his thing is to develop the art of cooking inside his dim sum. It's a whirlwind of dishes and believe me, it's exquisite.

 

Although I'd been standing on the brakes, exhausted by Jeffrey's tricks, I found myself wolfing down these delightful compositions made of crunchy vegetables and peanuts, crab and spinach, or bacon, shrimp and salmon… There was a bit of everything - steamed, fried or crispy - even a tiny dim sum that was staring at me with its little eyes… Or was that the fourth beer? When it was time to part company with Jeffery, I looked at my watch when we left - 4:30 p.m.: a threehour lunch!!!… 

Map

 

Look! Daniel Boulud's new place...

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

After Katz's we went to take a look at Daniel Boulud's brand new DBGB (299 Bowery; (212) 933-5300).

Not bad… Effective. But interestingly, offshoot restaurants of big-name chefs don't appeal to me. Probably just means I'm a an old fogey… 

While we were at it, Jeffrey took me to a great address for smoked fish - notably the latest catches of "Holland herring." The shop is super, packed of course, but fascinating if you're into that style. Luckily, his friends weren't working that day and we managed to avoid the tasting - we had another wicked place to go explore: a fabulous dim sum restaurant. Until then, here's the smoked fish address to tide you over: Russ & Daughters, Appetizing Since 1914.

179, East Houston street (212) 475-4880 www.russsanddaughters.com/   Map

New York: Katz's mad boost

By François Simon

NEW YORK CITY

My friend Jeffrey Steingarten from Vogue magazine asked me to meet him on East Houston Street (205 East; (212) 254-2246) in front of Katz's. It was a rainy Saturday around lunchtime, so I stepped in out of the rain…

Holy smokes! It was like the subway in Paris during a strike in there. How many of us were there? Hundreds! In clusters, clots, conglomerates! I wondered why Jeffrey had insisted we meet here. It all became clear to me when we stood in line. It was super-sized, an all-American immersion. For someone who eats like a bird - a starling, let's say - I found myself standing in front of a wall of lard, a cascade of calories. Jeffrey has always dreamt of seeing me add a few notches to my belt.

This seemed like the right place to start. Eating with our hands, we bit into "delicious" pastrami sandwiches with giant pickles. Since I was belly-down pleading for an immediate cease-fire, Jeffrey suggested I taste a celery drink. Ick… Why not marshmallow steak, chocolate leg of lamb and trout cinder blocks while we're at it?

Between two foaming bites, I asked Jeffrey why there is only one Katz's address in the world. He answered with his mouth full: "Probably because they're honest." I like Jeffrey's sense of humor. On the wall you can read the words "Send a Salami to Your Boy in the Army!"

Map  http://www.katzdeli.com/