simon says french food blog

Ceci n’est pas une huître

By Mara Grimm

Is it an herb? Is it a drug? Or is it the newest molecular gimmick? When I first tried one of these thick but perfectly smooth leaves at a party last month I wasn’t quite sure what to think because, quite surprisingly, it tasted exactly like an oyster. Happily, I was not the only one thinking this was too good to be true.

Ferran Adrià from El Bulli (***Rosas, Spain) told me that he serves these so called Oyster Leaves with two pearls of vinaigrette on top, and his guests are so surprised by the taste they think Ferran has come up with a new trick once again. The opposite is true.

The Oyster Leaf is all natural. It has its origin in the Hebrides, North-Scotland, but is now grown by Koppert Cress, a Dutch company that specializes in micro-vegetables. At first, owner Rob Baan grew the leaves exclusively for El Bulli, but he’s decided it’s now time for the rest of the world to share in the joy of eating vegetarian oysters.

Serve them as Ferran does, or as I did last night: on crushed ice with bread, butter and a glass of Chablis. Miss the feeling of a real oyster gently sliding down your throat? Then get some real oysters instead and use the leaves thinly sliced in fish dishes or, since it’s the season, on asparagus.
Check out www.koppertcress.nl for more.

Mara Grimm is the editor of Holland's biggest restaurant guide: Lekker. She also writes about new restaurants, shops and culinary trends in Delicious Magazine and has a monthly column on kids and food.

LET MOM EAT CAKE

  

NOTO, SICILY

I’m back in The Motherland.

It’s a work/play trip that includes bringing my parents to the land of our Sicilian ancestors for the first time. My sister and I are English, Irish, French, Italian, Dutch and German mutts, but it’s always been the Sicilian side – via our paternal grandmother – that we identify with most as a family.

I’m playing tour guide so the induction is based on food and Day One includes a visit to pastry chef Corrado Assenza’s appropriately named Caffè Sicilia.

While Assenza’s ideas and creations can be otherworldly, he’s a product-sourcing freak. If he can’t do it perfectly, he won’t do it.

His almond gelato not only tastes like an almond in another state, but even has the slight tannic tang from the almond skin along with a mix of minerals and salt in the skin that makes Sicilian almonds unique.

We also try a “Traversata del Deserto” – a cake that includes mint, black tea, lemon rind, sea salt and “lyophilized” (freeze-dried) algae. It’s the kind of thing that Mom would try but stop after one bite. 

Instead, she makes a funny grunting noise, almost like she’s disappointed.

“I’m sorry for all the cakes that will come after this in my life.”

...

Full disclosure: Assenza, who I’ve interviewed and written about in the past, came out to say hello while we were there, but we paid our bill and you can’t bake a cake or make gelato on the fly.

Caffè Sicilia MAP
Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125
Noto, Sicily

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

La Poularde, in down-home France

By François Simon

If you’ve traveled across France, you may have sometimes spent the night in what was formerly a post house.  They’re just about everywhere.  Always in the center of town, right on the main drag, they embody the history of our country, an extraordinary heritage that’s quietly disappearing.
They’re often marvelous places.  Today, these hotels may not have a park, or a heliport, or a spa perfumed with ginseng.  But they’re still there.

Tonight, I’m in Monrond les Bains, near Saint Etienne.  The address is well-known: la Poularde.  The chef is a reference: Gilles Eteocle.  And yet, as the service begins the vast dining room is barely a quarter full. 

I chose the 99 euro prix-fixe menu.  It was truly a privilege.  A remarkable dinner marked by great attentiveness; squab terrine with foie gras, beef, cheeses, and a rather complicated but expertly crafted dessert.

Gastronomy is filled with cynical shooting stars – take the example of Gordon Ramsay at Versailles, skipping town after pocketing his stars and royalties – and that's all the more reason for us to seek out these places which are perhaps a bit outmoded, but which are sensational in their own setting.

It’s high time that you lend your support to these overtly luxurious places, sample their authentic cooking, and hold onto this France that is slipping through our fingers.
Hostellerie la Poularde, in Montrond les Bains 42210.Tel : 04.77.54.40.06.  (Affiliated with the chain Châteaux & hôtels collection)

Hostellerie la Poularde, à Montrond les bains 42210.Tel : 04.77.54.40.06.  Map

Châteaux & hôtels collection

LUNCH BY THE NUMBERS

Paris,

By Joe Ray

Get there before it’s overrun with ministers.

Maybe because it’s brand new and hasn’t been discovered yet. Maybe it’s because it was a vacation week or just a slow day, but four of us had Le 122, smack in the heart of ministry central to ourselves.

Instead of that depressing, feel bad for the owners, ‘why are we whispering?’ feeling, it was perfect. The chef and his wife came over to talk once in a while and the waiter nosed in with an off the cuff crack that had huge crash and burn potential, but instead, he had read us perfectly.

Chef’s pedigree shows in his fish dishes like a toothy and full of flavor smoked sardine and anise-tomato marmelade appetizer and a cod pissaladière – a Provencal pizza cousin, this one doing a wonderful job of respecting the fish.

We share a Coteaux du Vendomois that Chef calls his wine of the month. It’s made by a friend of his and so good and well-priced, I hope everything on the wine list is made by his friends.

Dessert? Strawberries with a tea foam that sits in a glass bowl and looks like a floating flower.

A friend was supposed to leave early, instead, she asked for another spoon.

Le 122 : 122 rue de Grenelle 75007 Paris Map

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

EastWest, in every sense.

Geneva
 
By Christophe Doré

 

EastWest can be classed among these boutique hotels replicating across the world, none exactly the same, none entirely different, but always sporting little particularities. In the case of EastWest, that means pillow spray and an open-sky patio with a streaming wall of colored water. Another plus: the Pourcel brothers (from Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier) have put their imprimatur on the restaurant’s menu, from the room service to the breakfast, which was unfortunately inconsistent from one day to the next.
 
As for the rest, you can almost feel discouraged from going outside, because everything is here to keep you indoors: smart but comfortable design in the rooms, a welcoming library where you can read and work in complete tranquility, free high speed WIFI, a hopping bar in the evenings….  A bit Japanese in spirit, Mediterranean in its cuisine, and very Swiss in its discretion, you shouldn’t go out of your way to visit Geneva just for EastWest, but if you’re in town, it’s a nice alternative to the Palaces that overlook the lake.  Should you spend the night here?  Yes.
 
From 270 Chf for a standard room to 970 Chf for a duplex suite.
EastWest : 6, rue des paquis Geneva Tél : + 41 22 708 17 17 - Fax : + 41 22 708 17 18 -  Map [email protected]

Kong, only pour la vue...

By François Simon

Granted, Kong has undeniable appeal with its incredible glass-enclosed dining area overlooking Paris and the banks of the Seine – although you’ve got to be seated along the sides (be very sure to specify when making the reservation).  Otherwise, the welcome was a bit cold, the food was fine but rather ordinary (good purée), middling prices – it all works well enough and you wind up with an acceptable evening.  But nothing more.

Kong : 1, rue du Pont neuf, 75001 Paris (01.40.39.09.00). Comptez 60 euros quand même. Map

Photo F Simon

The most expensive potato in the world

By Mara Grimm

 

After working for seven years as a food editor, hardly any restaurant bill surprises me anymore.

But when I heard somebody paid 500 euros for a kilogram of potatoes I was in complete shock. And in desperate need of a taste. The miniature potato La Bonnotte is number 5 on the list of ‘the most expensive foods in the world’, next to saffron, truffle and caviar. It is cultivated exclusively on the Isle of Noirmoutier, where seaweed is added to the soil in which it’s grown. The result is a potato with a complex flavor that includes hints of lemon, earth and, of course, the sea. To make La Bonnotte even more exotic, it’s available only from May 1st to May 10th, and the local farmers produce not more then 20,000 kilos annually.

This explains the ridiculous pricing (actually the €500 turned out to be a one-time amount; at a local delicacy shop you can expect to pay around €70 per kilo), and why La Bonnotte hardly ever leaves France. So is all this just smart marketing or is this really the most special potato in the world? Dutch chef Jos de Groot of Rotterdam’s newest high-end restaurant VIS was so intrigued by La Bonnotte that he drove all the way to Noirmoutier to get some and then invited me for a four course press lunch. Jos served La Bonnotte as chips with a seaweed mayonnaise as an amuse bouche. Then he roasted them and topped them with vongole, crème fraîche and caviar. He also turned La Bonnotte into a delicate mousseline that paired well with super fresh coquilles, asparagus and lemon mayonnaise.

But my personal favorite was a dish with a fondant of La Bonnotte combined with lobster, sea fennel and the Italian sausage stolghino di culatello: an elegant dish in which both land and sea were in perfect harmony. And that’s exactly what La Bonnotte is all about.

You can try La Bonnotte until May 15^th in French top restaurants and in The Netherlands at De Librije (*** Zwolle), Le Ciel Blue (**Amsterdam),'t Brouwerskolkje (**Overveen), De Bokkedoorns (** Overveen) and Savelberg (* Voorburg).

Mara Grimm is the editor of  Holland's biggest restaurant guide: Lekker. She also writes about new restaurants, shops and culinary trends in Delicious Magazine and has a monthly column on kids and food.

IF YOUR SALIVARY GLANDS HAVEN’T KICKED IN, BLOW YOUR NOSE

By Joe Ray

Call me a traitor, but here I go.

Though it might look like pink champagne, the apéro of the summer is a beer, and not one for the faint of heart.

Cantillon’s “Kriek 100% Lambic” is an eye-popper that will stand your taste buds happily on end.

It’s also a dive into the deep end of Belgian beer vocabulary. In short, lambics are natural fermentation beers that are aged for at least three years in oak barrels. A kriek, is a lambic (or a gueuze) made with sour cherries known as griottes.

While some companies have turned kriek into a sweet and sticky mess, those worth their salt are bracingly sour.
Cantillon’s kriek has just a hint of creamy suds on top and gets its cooked cherry color from the griottes. Poke your nose into the top of a glass and you’ll get a blast the grapefruit smell that is the hallmark of many good lambics, along with a hint of green apples. If your salivary glands haven’t kicked in by now, blow your nose.

Take a sip and you’ll get a kick of that fantastic sour and acidic grapefruit flavor.

If you can find any way to get your stomach and taste buds more ready for a meal, the comment box is one click away…

...

P.S. In Paris, I found my bottle at Pommier inside the Marché Beauvau - the covered market at Marché d’Aligre in the 11th arrondissement.

Cantillon has a handy place to start your quest with a partial list of wholesalers and places to buy your bottle here.

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

Three star take-out

By Mara Grimm 

A great idea from an even greater chef: Alain Passard of the restaurant L’Arpege (*** Paris) now makes pastry for take-out. We’re not talking about your ordinary tart, but an innovation that has all the potential for becoming a new French classic: tarte aux pommes Bouquet de Roses. This elegant apple tart consists of sliced and blanched strips of apple rolled into the shape of roses and arranged in a thin pastry shell. Each tart is comprised of about 35 flowers, so it actually looks like a real bouquet.  The result is subtle, fresh, light and – thank God – not too sweet. The King of Vegetables himself calls it ‘a tart, a dessert, but also a way to express love’. We just call it the best bouquet of flowers we’ve ever received. How does it work? Just order by phone and pick up your tart 24 hours later. Prices start at €25,-.  www.alain-passard.com

Mara Grimm is the editor of  Holland's biggest restaurant guide: Lekker. She also writes about new restaurants, shops and culinary trends in Delicious Magazine and has a monthly column on kids and food.

10.50 euros at la Vie en Fruits

Paris,

By François Simon

10 euros for lunch : My little promenade continues, this time with a set menu I discovered at La Vie en Fruits (Saint Germain). The lunch set menu at 7.50 euros does the job with a good carrot-apple-ginger juice and this salad with bulgar, carrots and some chicken. A bit filling, to be honest, but it works. I might have gone a little far by taking the dried fruits and nuts (3 euros). In any case, you receive a very warm welcome in this little place. There’s also frozen yogurt with fresh fruit at 3.50 euros and smoothies from 3 euros.

La Vie en Fruits : 116, Boulevard St Germain Tel : 01 46 33 48 18 Map

Photo F Simon

PARADISE IN SKETCHY-VILLE

Brussels

By Joe Ray

The Brussels taxi driver did a double take when I told him the address in the Saint Gilles neighborhood next to the Gare du Midi.

Arriving, I suggested a nighttime drop-off half a block from the B&B to avoid making a loop of one-way streets.

“You sure?” he asked. “Be careful.”

Not exactly what you want to hear when you’re just down the street from the police station.

Go anyway. The Art de la Fugue wipes away the doubts as soon as you walk in the door. Gracious hosts, high ceilings and big, beautiful spaces that cleverly mix modern design and flea market chic immediately make you forget the outside world.

Each room has a theme: Farinelli for the princess, Indochina for a bit of Zen, and Lawrence of Arabia for the travel writer. Don’t worry: all cool, no kitsch.

There are televisions hidden in each room, but it’s doubtful you’ll watch – the atmosphere makes you want to read, write, play the piano or linger over a very tasty breakfast.

The kicker? The price – around 100 euros per room per night.

L'art de la Fugue - MAP
Bed & Breakfast
Rue de Suède 38
1060 Brussels
+32 478 69 59 44
www.lartdelafugue.com

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

53 Passage, another success !

Paris,

By François Simon

 For hot new Parisian restaurants, there is no economic crisis. The most recent just opened in Passage des Panoramas, in front of the wine bistro Racines. What you get is simple and uncomplicated (vegetable platter, terrines, oyster and veal tartar). In the kitchen is a chef formerly of Aida, and in the dining room are a bunch of young go-getters.

A very nice wine list that’s short, but solid. It was impeccable the first night. Get moving.

53 Passage des panoramas Tel : 01.42.33.04.35. Figure around 30 euros. Map

Restaurant Paris 2

Photo F Simon

An auberge in the Luberon where a river flows

Luberon,

By Christophe Doré

Nothing compares to a second impression.

I’d stayed at this inn for the first time in the spring.  The poppies reddened the prairies of the Luberon and the light, which has such a special quality in this region, sang over the cool river.  The place was simply sublime.  It was Provence in all its bucolic perfection, the scent of thyme, wild orchids, a gentle breeze passing through the trees, lavender….

I came back at the end of the summer.  The hot stones of the tables on the terrace, where L’Auberge de l’Aiguebrun serves salads with vegetables freshly picked from their garden, had only added a few days of intense sun to what was already a century of existence.  The service, showing a bit of fatigue after the tourist season, was a bit spotty in responding to my requests.  But that’s alright.  The olive oil was perfect, the tomatoes juicy, the bread golden and delicious.

Flowing by just a few steps from the terrace of the cozy wooden cabana that I’d chosen, the river brought with it a freshness that I had been longing for.  It was perfect.  Time could have stopped.  Far from the world, I spent my afternoon reading a book by Jean Giono, serenaded by the voice of the chef, Francis Motta, energetically overseeing the preparation of the Provencal beef stew for that evening.

Go see for yourself why a supreme comfort is to be found in this old house built in 1890, once a post house and also at one point owned by the filmmaker Agnès Varda.  And in addition, you’ll find some beautiful Provencal antiques, homemade jams at breakfast, the right to poke your nose into the kitchen to see what the chef is making (excellent, inventive gourmet Provencal cuisine), everything you need for a nearly perfect idyll, at less than five kilometers from Bonnieux and only a short distance from one of the most beautiful hilltop villages in France.

L'Auberge de l'Aiguerbun.  From 140 euros for a double room.  The property can be found off Route Départementale 943.  Tel +33 4.90.04.47.00. Web  Map

LAST ONE(S) FOR THE ROAD

Brussels

By Joe Ray

Brussels,

By Joe Ray

Who knew a bitter aftertaste was a good thing?

On a suggestion from the bed and breakfast owner, I check out Brasserie de l’Union on the Parvis Saint-Gilles, which, in my case, was literally off the map.

I have an Orval, mostly because I haven’t yet, and watch the world go by. Spring is in the air – trees are budding and everybody in out on les terrasses, following the afternoon sun like flowers.

There are scads of other places to check out on the square: head across the street (sun or no) to Le Librar for leather jackets, piercings, tattoos and a blessed lack of gawkers or double back to the Maison du Peuple for an afternoon’s worth of Wi-Fi and bourgeoisie.

There, however, a local points me further up the street (and further off the map) to Chez Moeder Lambic where the beer list is long and the service and cheeses are raw – one of the best finds of the trip. If they’ve got it, the Trappist Val-Dieu comes highly recommended, but I start with a Gouyasse the end my Belgian beer quest the way I started – with a St. Bernardus wit.

I’ll be back.

Parvis Saint-Gilles – Map

Chez Moeder Lambic – Map
Savoiestraat 68, Belgium
+34 02 539 14 19‎

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2009

Brought to you by The S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2009

1 El Bulli Spain (=) www.elbulli.com

2 The Fat Duck UK (=) www.fatduck.co.uk

3 Noma Denmark (▲7) www.noma.dk

4 Mugaritz Spain (=) www.mugaritz.com

5 El Celler de Can Roca Spain (▲21) www.cellercanroca.com

6 Per Se USA (=) www.perseny.com

7 Bras France (=) www. michel-bras.com 

8 Arzak Spain (=) www.arzak.es

9 Pierre Gagnaire France (▼6) www.pierre-gagnaire.com

10 Alinea USA (▲11) www.alinea-restaurant.com

11 L’Astrance France (=) www.lastrance.abemadi.com

12 The French Laundry USA (▼7) www.frenchlaundry.com

13 Osteria Francescana Italy (New Entry) www.osteriafrancescana.it

14 St John UK (▲2) www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk

15 Le Bernardin USA (▲5) www.le-bernardin.com

16 Restaurant de l’HÔtel de Ville Switzerland (▲11) www.philippe-rochat.ch

17 Tetsuya’s Australia (▼8) http://www.tetsuyas.com

18 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon France (▼4) www.joel-robuchon.com

19 Jean Georges USA (▼2) www.jean-georges.com

20 Les Créations de Narisawa Japan (New Entry) www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com

21 Chez Dominique Finland (▲18) www.chezdominique.fi

22 Ristorante Cracco Italy (▲21) www.ristorantecracco.it

23 Die Schwarzwaldstube Germany (▲12) www.traube-tonbach.de

24 D.O.M. Brazil (▲16)

25 Vendôme Germany (▲9)

26 Hof van Cleve Belgium (▲2)

27 Masa USA (Re-entry) www.masanyc.com

28 Gambero Rosso, Italy (-16) 29 Oud Sluis, Netherlands (+13) 30 Steirereck, Austria (New Entry) 31 Momofuku Ssam Bar, U.S. (New Entry) 32 Oaxen Skaergaardskrog, Sweden (+16) 33 Martin Berasategui, Spain (-4) 34 Nobu U.K. (-4) 35 Mirazur, France (New Entry) 36 Hakkasan, U.K. (-17) 37 Le Quartier Francais, South Africa (+13) 38 La Colombe, South Africa (Re-entry) 39 Asador Etxebarri, Spain (+5) 40 Le Chateaubriand, France (New Entry) 41 Daniel, U.S. (=) 42 Combal Zero, Italy (Re-entry) 43 Le Louis XV, France (-28) 44 Tantris, Germany (+3) 45 Iggy’s, Singapore (New Entry) 46 Quay, Australia (New Entry) 47 Les Ambassadeurs, France (-2) 48 Dal Pescatore, Italy (-25) 49 Le Calandre, Italy (-13) 50 Mathias Dahlgren, Sweden (New Entry)

1 El Bulli Spain (=) www.elbulli.com

2 The Fat Duck UK (=) www.fatduck.co.uk

3 Noma Denmark (▲7) www.noma.dk

4 Mugaritz Spain (=) www.mugaritz.com

5 El Celler de Can Roca Spain (▲21) www.cellercanroca.com

6 Per Se USA (=) www.perseny.com

7 Bras France (=) www. michel-bras.com 

8 Arzak Spain (=) www.arzak.es

9 Pierre Gagnaire France (▼6) www.pierre-gagnaire.com

10 Alinea USA (▲11) www.alinea-restaurant.com

11 L’Astrance France (=) www.lastrance.abemadi.com

12 The French Laundry USA (▼7) www.frenchlaundry.com

13 Osteria Francescana Italy (New Entry) www.osteriafrancescana.it

14 St John UK (▲2) www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk

15 Le Bernardin USA (▲5) www.le-bernardin.com

16 Restaurant de l’HÔtel de Ville Switzerland (▲11) www.philippe-rochat.ch

17 Tetsuya’s Australia (▼8) http://www.tetsuyas.com

18 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon France (▼4) www.joel-robuchon.com

19 Jean Georges USA (▼2) www.jean-georges.com

20 Les Créations de Narisawa Japan (New Entry) www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com

21 Chez Dominique Finland (▲18) www.chezdominique.fi

22 Ristorante Cracco Italy (▲21) www.ristorantecracco.it

23 Die Schwarzwaldstube Germany (▲12) www.traube-tonbach.de

24 D.O.M. Brazil (▲16)

25 Vendôme Germany (▲9)

26 Hof van Cleve Belgium (▲2)

27 Masa USA (Re-entry) www.masanyc.com

28 Gambero Rosso, Italy (-16) 29 Oud Sluis, Netherlands (+13) 30 Steirereck, Austria (New Entry) 31 Momofuku Ssam Bar, U.S. (New Entry) 32 Oaxen Skaergaardskrog, Sweden (+16) 33 Martin Berasategui, Spain (-4) 34 Nobu U.K. (-4) 35 Mirazur, France (New Entry) 36 Hakkasan, U.K. (-17) 37 Le Quartier Francais, South Africa (+13) 38 La Colombe, South Africa (Re-entry) 39 Asador Etxebarri, Spain (+5) 40 Le Chateaubriand, France (New Entry) 41 Daniel, U.S. (=) 42 Combal Zero, Italy (Re-entry) 43 Le Louis XV, France (-28) 44 Tantris, Germany (+3) 45 Iggy’s, Singapore (New Entry) 46 Quay, Australia (New Entry) 47 Les Ambassadeurs, France (-2) 48 Dal Pescatore, Italy (-25) 49 Le Calandre, Italy (-13) 50 Mathias Dahlgren, Sweden (New Entry)

Woo Jung, Korea right in the kisser

Paris,

By François Simon

 This is without doubt one of the best Korean restaurants in Paris, offering a superbly done sea bream with vegetables that's particularly notable. 

It’s a good performance overall, with the exception of the rather stark lighting and slightly staid atmosphere . You’ll find a number of Koreans here (including some of the administrators of the Korean cultural center), which is always a good sign.  But certainly, there are more charming places in Paris.  I'll be following-up for you.... Figure on 40 euros per person.

Woo Jung 8, boulevard Delessert - 75016 Paris. Tél: 01 45 20 72 82 Map

Photo F Simon

Brussels : Westvleteren

Brussels

By Joe Ray

After a good round of gueuze, barman Sebastien starts talking about Westvleteren 12, a Trappist brew that’s rare as hen’s teeth and a whole lot better tasting. It’s often raked as the best beer in the world and is the crown jewel of Café la Brocante.

 “Super rare,” says Sebastian, delicately teasing out the bait. “First you have to call them 400 times and they never pick up the phone. And they’re monks, so they don’t have answering machines.”

Later, he explains, if you get through, you schedule a pickup at the abbey of Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren where the monks will give you a case (“Two if you’re lucky”) and write down your license plate number so you can’t come back for more.

Sold.

He pours a chalice-type glass, leaving the last bit of sediment in the bottom of the bottle. The beer’s so deep colored that the thick foam takes on a coffee-with-cream color that gives off a toffee and licorice nose so strong it almost makes you want to cut it with a bit of water to get the full bouquet. At 10.5% alcohol – more than twice of what’s in a bottle of Bud - the idea’s not that far-fetched.

Sip.

A wall of flavor pushes through my mouth and out the sides of my tongue. There are the toffee and licorice flavors, but a concentrated, sweet and malty earthiness, too. It’s the perfect way to end a beer trip to Brussels and cheaper than a bad pint in Paris. I buy one for the road. The abbey of Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren

10 euros at Rose Bakery II, perfection

Paris,

By François Simon

No kidding, for ten euros, it’s hard to beat Rose Bakery II.  A superb salad bursting with healthful goodness, packed with every salubrious thing that the earth has to offer at the moment. Beautiful vegetables, wholesome and seasoned perfectly, with, as the crowning touch, a dome of rice, peas, and cherry tree blossoms.
 
After that, I left sated (it’s a pretty deep bowl) and content.
 
My advice: as this address has already been discovered, the ideal approach would be to arrive at the very start of the service, because afterwards it gets unbelievably packed.

Rose bakery II, 30 rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris (01.49.96.54.01) Map

Restaurant Paris 3

Photo F Simon 

LEAVE THE WINE. TAKE THE CANNOLI

Paris,

By Joe Ray

A quick pause from Belgian beer to say that when it comes to finding the best Italian in the 11th arrondissement, you win, François.

Last night, taking the advice of locals and friends, a sommelier friend and I went to Casa Vigata for Sicilian on rue Léon Frot for a hit and miss extravaganza.

The hits: The Seafood – a clam and artichoke appetizer full of flavor and sauce made for bread dipping, whole-roasted octopus served with just a slice of lemon and a perfectly-cooked breaded swordfish main. Paris can be disastrous when you’re looking for good fish and these guys nail it.

The Cannoli – Leave the gun. The friendly owner makes these daily using a crispy shell, light, tangy ricotta and just a touch of candied orange peel. If there’s better in Paris I haven’t found it.

The misses:

Consistency: Our neighbors ordered two of the same dishes as we did; their octopus was cooked better (mine was slightly over) and their swordfish/caponata portions were significantly larger. They also got a shot of lemoncello with their check. The last is certainly at the owner’s discretion, but all three together leave a bitter taste.

The worst:

The wine – overpriced and/or not that good. A red Sicilian table wine for 40 euros? I love a good Nero d’Avola, but please. It took us 10 minutes looking at the wine list to essentially decide how we were going to be fleeced and we still lost. My friend was talking about…something when I got distracted by a sip of the white we ordered…

Me: “This is bad.”

Sommelier friend: “Very bad.”

The verdict? I’ll try again in a year. Maybe.

Casa Vigata : 44 rue Léon Frot 75011 Paris +33.1.43.56.38.66 Map 

Caffé dei Cioppi, Italian restaurant of the month !

Paris,

By François Simon

You’re gonna like this one.  If I lived in the neighborhood, I’d keep my own personal napkin ring there (Translator’s note: refers to a now rarely-observed tradition in French restaurants whereby regulars would keep a personal napkin or napkin ring at the establishment, often in little cubby holes along the wall).  Delicious, warm and welcoming, here’s a place that will make you love restaurants again. Take note – it’s not big (it barely seats 15), but in return what a wonderful experience: lamb shoulder with carrots, with the shoulder delicately cooked; the carrots and a few onions accompanying the lamb, and a sauce that doesn’t overwhelm.  Indeed, it’s sufficient to respect a dish, to avoid hounding it, pestering it by adding all sorts of bells and whistles - no, you have to let it express itself, find its own path; what good does it do to interfere?  To over-embellish recipes is nothing but vanity. 

For an appetizer, mozzarella with translucent eggplant.  Frederica and Fabrizio watch over their clients out of the corners of their eyes.  When the lamb shoulder arrives, from off to the side comes the proposal, “You wouldn’t like a little chervil with that?” And bam, just like that a little saucer of freshly-cut chervil appears. 

Count on less than 30 euros per person.

Caffé dei Cioppi, 159, rue du faubourg Saint Antoine, 75011 Paris (01.43.46.10.14). Closed Saturday and Sunday, as well as Monday and Tuesday nights.Map

Photo F Simon