Paris, France
Restaurants inside museums have always felt a kind of embarassment towards food. As well as towards many other things, in fact. Rudeness, common things, other temptations. They retain around themselves a kind of space which they expect to fill in a tawdry manner. Fortunately, from time to time, some unexpected rays of sunshine appear, like at the Saut du Loup, in the Museum of Decorative Arts.
The service is stylish and efficient, though at times the solicitude of the staff goes a bit too far.
I started off with a Romaine salad. Somewhat entertaining, it was rather a failure (the Romaine remains imperturbable), but at least there is some goodwill here, some risk taking, even if lacking in execution, indeed the dish was simply ordinary in the end.
Next up are the Saint-Jacques. The chef still prepares his emulsions the way they were made at the beginning of the 21st century. The problem is that goes back a decade now. That said, it seems suited to this sort of disembodied meal, ethereal and cloud-like, that seems to fly through the air, and which in the end isn’t bad thanks largely to the attentiveness to flavour (here, a touch of vanilla, with the sea bass a hint of ginger with the bass). It was quite a pleasant experience, though the portions are a bit meagre given the hefty prices (26€).
Overall, it was a delightful experience (there’s a beautiful terrace), even if it obviously isn’t cheap at 143€ for two people, which gets you just enough to pick at.
Le Saut du loup, 107, rue de Rivoli (1er) - Tel. : 01 42 25 49 55. Web Map
Comments