London,
It’s always a pleasure to arrive at St. Pancras, but if you haven’t already made reservations, you’re going to struggle to find a table. So here’s a little London survival kit designed for food lovers.
First, some friendly advice – avoid haute cuisine. If you’re so inclined, you can always give it a go with Gordon Ramsey, Tom Aikens, or even Heston Blumenthal in Bray. Not to be pretentious, but honestly, you’ll find just as good in Paris. If not better. Gordon Ramsey, for example, is like Guy Savoy in the 1980s. Blumenthal (at the Fat Duck) steers between Sartre and Mary Poppins, as well as towards some confreres in France (Decoret in Vichy or Thierry Marx in Bordeaux).
Here are a few little places that I’m fond of. “So British” – isn’t that what you’re after?
THE WOLSELEY
An incomparable shrine to tea, pub life, and cuisine, and a marvelous observatory for a view on London life. You can come for oysters before the theatre or a vernissage, and then come back afterwards for dinner. The décor is 1920s art deco, with sepia lighting bathing a scene of London extravagance. Terrific. Cuisine interchangeable.
160 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 9EB. Tél. : 00.44.20.7499.6996.
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WILTONS
You find the noise level deafening in fashionable restaurants? You’re not wrong. The best prescription is this elegant address where the kindness and quality (impeccable fish) are irresistible. All the same, figure on 50£ (63 €) per person…
55 Jermyn Street, London SWIY 6LX. Tél. : 00.44.20.7629.9955.
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