If you’ve traveled across France, you may have sometimes spent the night in what was formerly a post house. They’re just about everywhere. Always in the center of town, right on the main drag, they embody the history of our country, an extraordinary heritage that’s quietly disappearing.
They’re often marvelous places. Today, these hotels may not have a park, or a heliport, or a spa perfumed with ginseng. But they’re still there.
Tonight, I’m in Monrond les Bains, near Saint Etienne. The address is well-known: la Poularde. The chef is a reference: Gilles Eteocle. And yet, as the service begins the vast dining room is barely a quarter full.
I chose the 99 euro prix-fixe menu. It was truly a privilege. A remarkable dinner marked by great attentiveness; squab terrine with foie gras, beef, cheeses, and a rather complicated but expertly crafted dessert.
Gastronomy is filled with cynical shooting stars – take the example of Gordon Ramsay at Versailles, skipping town after pocketing his stars and royalties – and that's all the more reason for us to seek out these places which are perhaps a bit outmoded, but which are sensational in their own setting.
It’s high time that you lend your support to these overtly luxurious places, sample their authentic cooking, and hold onto this France that is slipping through our fingers.
Hostellerie la Poularde, in Montrond les Bains 42210.Tel : 04.77.54.40.06. (Affiliated with the chain Châteaux & hôtels collection)
Hostellerie la Poularde, à Montrond les bains 42210.Tel : 04.77.54.40.06. Map
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