Chez l'Ami Jean, calm seas…

By François Simon

PARIS,

Going to Stephane Jego’s l’Ami Jean is always a wild experience.
 
You’ve got to be in Olympic form, full of energy, and prepared to be a real man. Otherwise, believe me, you’ll leave with your head in your hands muttering, “Oh la la.” In other words, generous helpings of damn good food that hits all the high notes.
 
For cowards, however, there is a lighter option.  Lunch is perfect.  You can breathe, stretch out, and the food is just as good.  You start to realize that the dishes need a little space and calm to be appreciated.  Sure, I love the boisterous atmosphere of the evenings, and the mountain of calories you’ve got to climb before you’re finished, but sometimes a little peace and quiet is nice, too. 

L'ami Jean : 27, rue Malar, 75007 Paris . 01.47.05.86.90. Map