PARIS
Finally - Jean Paul Hevin’s salon de thé has just reopened. And it was an absolute must to be there on the first day to hear the renewed tapping of little spoons!
You get the idea – a devilishly light milk-chocolate mousse, airy but eminently chocolaty, superb work that evokes the flavor of the cocoa beans. You almost get the impression that the chocolate is lightly perfumed with berries. It isn’t so, in fact – there’s only the chocolate, expressed here in all its purity. It’s a wonderful moment. As for the tarte au chocolat (which will be available soon), one musn’t hesitate to ask for it served warm. That’s when you’ll really lose it. It practically stings; not unlike being slapped in the face. Retreat is no longer an option, by now you’ve been properly enveloped in a wall of chocolate. It’s a funny feeling – the chocolate actually seems to penetrate; a gustatory shock. It’s like being hooked up to a chocolate IV. As good as opium.
Jean Paul Hevin, 231, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris. Tel : 01.55.35.35.86
(photo F.Simon).
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