Lyon,
At 7:30, there wasn’t much of a crowd. Mère Brazier in Lyon. Sounds like the name of a hip-hip group – it just happens to be a culinary legend. Taken over by Mathieu Vianney, the place looks terrific with all of the art-deco ceramics restored. As for the food, it wouldn’t be too much to say it’s impeccable: a pâté en croûte (with a crust), Bresse poultry and lobster, a thin chicory tart…It was delicious, uncomplicated.
At 9 o’clock I was on the train home, relieved to have rediscovered an old haunt that hadn’t moved. Highly recommended for those who enjoyed old-fashioned pleasures and experiences (the best kinds!).
12, rue Royale (04.78.23.17.20). Menus from 45 euros. A la carte figure on 100 euros. Map
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