Hotel des Pyrenees, stuffy but good

By François Simon

 
After a period of disfavor this solid regional institution has emerged from the wilderness with two stars from the Michelin guide.  It’s a traditional address alternating between an exaggerated provincial formality and the youthfulness of a new generation, evidenced by the presence of Firmin Arrambide’s son Philippe, who’s come back home full of ideas and enthusiasm.
The dishes are turned out with a rare energy and the 40 euro prix-fixe is remarkable: asparagus soup, hake with mussels, and then a coffee parfait.  The à la carte menu is predictable but satisfying.  In the high season it gets quite busy (a bit too busy, in fact).
Overall, it still needs another shot in the arm to step completely into the 21st century. 
Les Pyrénées, 19, place du Général de Gaulle, 64220 Saint Jean Pied de Port (05.59.37.01.01) www.hotel-les-pyrenees.com. Rooms from 100 euros. Map

 

Photos F Simon