Paris
Sometimes people ask me if I know a sure bet for "a really good dinner." I hesitate, go over all the great names - they're often booked for the best of them - or dull as dishwater for the others. Here's an ace I keep up my sleeve: the Lancaster. Never a disappointment…
The menu. The classification they devised is as brilliant as ever: sourish tinge of dairies, vivacity of wine, pungency of condiments, bright notes of lemons and citrus fruit… You have to admit that arranging dishes like that is quite a feat. It's even remarkably intelligent. Here's the hitch – when you choose a dish, even in a place this civilized, you're like a dog over its bowl. You can't remember more than two words. Picture this: as is often the case when the name of the dish drags on, you end up with a comical scene peculiar to restaurants: "Yes, umm… I'll have the… umm… What was it? The, umm, the periwinkles." Having said that, the pleasure of this cuisine, conceived by Michel Troigros and executed by Julien Roucheteau (fancy that - his name's on the menu! rare and impressive!) lies in its vivacity and incisive lightness, like the John Dory ‘petals’ in rhubarb sauce.
This was followed by a remarkable filet of brill poached in vegetable broth. In cases like this, you oh-so-delicately brush your napkin over your lips, like over a mirage. Excellent. Is it expensive? Taking a look at the bill this morning, The Lancaster is a bit on the steep side: 258€ for an excellent gastronomic experience and a fine bottle of Collioure (Schistes). The restaurant can also be much more affordable, particularly for lunch on the terrace. Do go.
Le Lancaster - 7, rue de Berri, 75008 Paris (01.40.76.40.18). Map
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