simon says french food blog

NEWS FLASH: EARLY CHRISTMAS IN COBBLE HILL

By Joe Ray
BROOKLYN

The Txikito gang has been doing some early Christmas shopping. Alex Raij and Eder Montero, the couple who made Chelsea a better place by opening both Txikito and El Quinto Pino, signed a lease on Monday for a new Brooklyn restaurant, La Vara, slated to open in early 2012.

Located in the spot recently vacated by the ill-fated Breuckelen restaurant at 268 Clinton St. - next to the lovely Ted & Honey Café - Raij says the cuisine will be “Spanish food seen through its Moorish and Jewish roots.”

The food will be a mix of small plates and shareable larger dishes.

“The basis will be home cooking, not the traditional ‘meat, starch, veg,’” says Raij.

Who’ll be running the line? “We will, for now,” she says.

Somewhere in there, Raij will also be having a baby.

“We did our last opening like that,” she jokes.

Why change now?

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the 2009 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year and author of the blog Eating The Motherland. Follow him on Facebook and on Twitter: @joe_diner. 

 

Hotel Arraya, the highlight

By François Simon

 

Without doubt the highlight of this little trip.  The village has a disarming charm : "le Fronton" a wall use for playing basque pelota, the terraces, the geraniums.  It’s true that in the summer it’s gets rather crowded.  But once the night rolls around, it’s idyllic. 
The hotel is ideally situated and offers beautiful terraces.  As for the food, it won’t have you doing somersaults, but you’ll find that will win you over immediately: the spirit of a beautiful 16th century Basque residence that’s passed from generation to generation. 
It’s the son of Jean Baptiste Fagoaga who welcomes you and presents you with a wine list that’s rather surprising, with bargain prices (a Sociando Mallet 2001 for 50 euros).  Nice dishes like the salad with lima beans and duck gizzards, then rabbit with honey sauce, and to finish off a curdled sheep’s milk crème brûlée, all in a menu at an unbeatable 23 euros.
Lovely rooms from 80 euros (ask for those that face the rear of the building, where it’s calm).  Exquisite breakfast, this is Basque country at its finest.

Bourg, 64310 Sare (05.59.54.20.46). www.arraya.com Map

Biarritz, les Rosiers, of course….

By François Simon

It’s funny, but sometimes the Michelin guide becomes so conventional in its judgments that it regularly runs into problems. The most flagrant example is in Biarritz where all of a sudden the worthy Sissinou has lost his star (which he never asked for), while the novice Rosiers has been awarded one just like that.

Andree and Stephane Rosier recently took over Les Platanes (formerly successfully presided over by Arnaud Daguin) and quickly got down to business by snaring a Michelin star. It should be said that the guide wasn’t taking much of a risk as Andree Rosier is the first woman to have won the title of “Best Worker in France,” which ought to guarantee a cuisine that’s technically proficient (although the pre-cooked risotto was served after 6 minutes instead of the required 22), and solid like this crab aspic (a little clumsily done, to be honest).

Pleasant for all that, like the service that’s just a smidgeon too familiar. Decent fish (monkfish piperade) but it’s missing that certain something you expect.

32, avenue Beau Soleil, 64200 Biarritz (05.59.23.13.68) ; www.restaurant-lesrosiers.fr  Map Figure 40 euros.

Hotel des Pyrenees, stuffy but good

By François Simon

 
After a period of disfavor this solid regional institution has emerged from the wilderness with two stars from the Michelin guide.  It’s a traditional address alternating between an exaggerated provincial formality and the youthfulness of a new generation, evidenced by the presence of Firmin Arrambide’s son Philippe, who’s come back home full of ideas and enthusiasm.
The dishes are turned out with a rare energy and the 40 euro prix-fixe is remarkable: asparagus soup, hake with mussels, and then a coffee parfait.  The à la carte menu is predictable but satisfying.  In the high season it gets quite busy (a bit too busy, in fact).
Overall, it still needs another shot in the arm to step completely into the 21st century. 
Les Pyrénées, 19, place du Général de Gaulle, 64220 Saint Jean Pied de Port (05.59.37.01.01) www.hotel-les-pyrenees.com. Rooms from 100 euros. Map

 

Photos F Simon

Hegia - with composers of melancholy and exuberance

 By François Simon

If you’re looking for an existential shock, a veritable gastronomic voyage, then you’ve got to reserve a stay at Hegia (only full room and board) with Véronique and Arnaud Daguin.

Spectacular countryside, a traditional house but definitely modernized with dazzling design in the rooms (check out the website, which shows off the results of architect Xavier Leibar’s collaboration with regional artisans), and an atmosphere enhanced by the music of Estonian composer Arvo Part, Eric Truffaz… In the evening, you dine in the kitchen in a little group (there are just 5 rooms), enjoying the exuberant, inspired creations of Arnaud that use market-bought products (freshly-caught fish, vegetables in abundance, poached foie gras etc…).

Véronique emerges from the cellar with wines precisely chosen yet entirely unexpected. Sumptuous nights spent in a glorious natural setting. Bliss. 650 euros for dinner, a room for one night, breakfast and wine, 600 euros from two nights.

Hegia : Kurutxetako bidea, Zelai 64240 Hazparne (05.59.29.67.86) ; Map www.hegia.com.

 

Basque country: the genesis of a dish

By François Simon

I’m happy today because I made a reservation at Auberge Basque.

Full disclosure: I’ve known chef Cedric Béchade ever since I was transfixed by his cooking at the Plaza Athénée in Paris. Afterwards we spoke on the phone and he let me know that he was leaving for the Pays Basque. Two years later, he opened his Auberge Basque.

For me, it’s the model of a successful, mature auberge that really hits the mark. You eat really well here, and of particular note is the exceptionally knowledgeable head sommelier, Samuel Ingelaere. The setting is superb, the rooms have a subtly modern décor.

Don’t think that Cedric Béchade has become a friend (we both have enough) - it's more of a cerebral rapport, exchanging thoughts and impressions; good conversations, that’s all. It was during one such discussion that he showed me how he sometimes conceives a dish: an outline, the shapes, ideas, principles.

But in the end my bill is paid in full – no conflicts of interest.

L'Auberge basque D 307, Vieille Route de Saint-Pée, 64310 Helbarron/Saint Pée sur Nivelle (05.59.51.70.50). Figure 45 euros, rooms from 90 to 250 euros. Worth noting is the 23 euro menu on Wednesday and Thursday for lunch. Web Map

Basque country, day one Chez Mattin: bingo!

By François Simon
 

Following my trip to Seoul (and during the wait before trips to Pouliguen, Sao Paolo, New-York and Hanoi), here’s an account of my little romp in the Basque country with five or six eminently recommendable places.
As soon as I arrived, I hopped in a rental car and headed off for lunch at Chez Mattin. If you're looking for pure, unadulterated authenticity in an atmosphere of real appreciation and enjoyment of eating, then this is your place.  There's a working-class clientele made up of sailors with sunburned faces, retired people with porcelain features, families and groups of friends.  Try the exquisite and famous le toro, a soup with a base of monkfish, mussels, and langoustines. Taste it with an eye towards appreciating the nobility of a concoction with a silky texture and seasoning that precisely accents the flavors.  It was enough to set my toes tapping.  I also had a coffee dessert that was awfully good…Always some nice surprises when you order off-menu.
Chez Mattin 63, rue Evariste Baignol, at Ciboure (05.59.47.19.52). Figure 30 euros. Map

Photo F Simon