simon says french food blog

PIZZA NEUF

 

By Joe Ray

PARIS – Grey day. The kind that makes you wear extravagant clothing in hopes they’ll create a break in the clouds. Parisians, a thin-blooded lot who put on cold-weather clothing at the drop of a hat, use days like this to break out their scarves and winter coats while the rest of us are fine in a long-sleeved shirt.

If you go out on a day like this, you tend not to stray too far. I rode my bike to meet a friend for lunch at pizzeria Maria Luisa behind the Canal Saint Martin, an area larded with good neighborhood restaurants.

It poured once we were inside, but it didn’t matter. The pizza (red sauce, mozz, anchovy) chased clouds and when I took a spin around the restaurant floor, all the different pies looked just as good. A kid at the table next to us got a kid-sized pizza and I’m pretty sure I didn’t see that on the menu. Nice touch.

Nitpicks: my crust could have been done underneath a bit more, my friend’s salad came with a ricotta that, curiously and distractingly, was slightly sweet. Avoid or refuse the table shoehorned into a dead space by the bathroom.

But these are little things. Using my Sicilian scale, this would have been a very respectable Pizza Sette, on a Parisian scale, however, Pizza Neuf.

Maria Luisa – Pizzeria Napoletana - MAP
2 rue Marie et Louise
75010 Paris
+33 1 44 84 04 04

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

 

STARING AWAY FROM THE FRESCO

By Joe Ray

PARIS

I love a good place hidden in plain sight. I’d walked by La Fresque, smack in the center of Les Halles, 100 times before a neighborhood friend proposed dinner there a few years back. I still remember trying and ostrich steak for the first time – a perfect presentation to get you over the hump and make you want to try it again because you like it. I also liked the idea of everyone walking by, oblivious to a good find.

A little while ago, we went back for lunch and a 14-euro menu included a light pumpkin flan with a curry cream sauce and a decent steak. My friend, a stickler for a good chevre chaud salad, wasn’t doing cartwheels, but pronounced herself satisfied.

More than that, I liked sitting under the big awning, protected from the rain and watching the world go by.

La Fresque
100, rue Rambuteau

+33 (0)1 42 33 17 56

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

NEW AND DIVIN(E) IN BELLEVILLE

By Joe Ray

PARIS

Paris is good to my comings and goings – little things to welcome me back or make me miss her when I go.

Before heading out for the summer, I bumped into Fred Valade in the northern reaches of Belleville while looking for my last lunch in Paris and asked where to get a good steak tartare in the neighborhood. He gave me a ‘no-can-do’ shrug and instead pointed me toward the new divin restaurant – a shiny, new and unfettered by capital letters.

The concept isn’t new, but there’s nothing to be tired of: a product-centric menu that cleverly goes easy on the chef at service time and a host of good organic and natural production wines. The restaurant is run by a pair of brothers, but divin is a direct cousin of the likes of La Crèmerie and Le Verre Volé; the more the merrier for this kind of place.

I had a thick slab of chunky pâté, full of deep, meaty and wonderfully liver-y flavor, all protected by a snow-white layer of fat and served with big, plump capers and good bread.

I washed it down with a (well-recommended) Côtes du Rhône, smacked my lips and headed to the airport with a smile.

Count on 10 - 20€ for your meal.

divin – MAP
35 rue des Annelets
75019 Paris
+33 1 40 40 79 41 

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

Photo note: lacking my camera at divin, I've substituted a shot of organic and natural production wines at the Crus et Decouvertes wine shop in the 11th.

SCALLOPS LIKE SCALLOPS, PIGEON LIKE PIGEON

By Joe Ray

PARIS – It’s perplexing when a new favorite doesn’t live up to what you remember.

A few months ago, I went to F.S. favorite Au Bascou and had a transcendent dish that, when I looked at the price - a bit more than what I’m used to paying with mains in the low to mid twenty euro range -  still said ‘well worth it.’ I knew I’d go back.

Tonight, on my return, I thought of the restaurant as a place that out of town guests would never find on a first trip to Paris and it was only…good.

Scallops tasted like scallops. Pigeon like pigeon. Cooking temperatures were perfect, yet nothing was lifted to that happy level where what’s in your mouth becomes more interesting what you’re talking about.

Fittingly, a thirty-odd euro Corbières was never mentioned as good or bad. The service was as slightly understaffed and flighty as ever – nothing to complain about at a corner café, but here, it feels like you’re paying for a bit more and not quite getting it.

I want to like this place as much as I did before. I want my meal to interrupt.

Au Bascou MAP
38, rue Réaumur,
75003 Paris
+33 1 42 72 69 25

DUSTY LAURELS

By Joe Ray

PARIS

It’s fine. I just don’t get what the fuss is about. Maybe I miss my old bakery - L’Autre Boulange in the 11th.

Belleville’s Au 140 bakery won Best Baguette in Paris in 2001 and the way they string the accolades up around the bakery, you’d think it was last week.

There are more scientific ways to do this, but the most Parisian baguette test is to nibble off the end on the way home. A really good one won’t be sticking out of the top of your bag by the time you unlock the door.

Still, it’s fine. There’s a trace of an almost sourdough-y bite, but I’d be hard pressed to say it’s much better than most. Top 40 percent? Mine was a bit past its prime freshness and mysteriously cool on the inside, but that might just be me being sensitive and wanting it to live up to expectations.

Up in this neck of the woods, there’s La Flûte Gana on the Rue des Pyramides which is technically a flute and not a baguette, but it blows the doors off of Au 140.

L’Autre Boulange MAP
43 rue de Montreuil
75011 Paris
+33 1 43 72 86 04
http://www.lautreboulange.com/

La Flûte Gana MAP
226 Rue des Pyrénées
75020 Paris
+33 1 43 58 42 62

Au 140 MAP
140 rue de Belleville
75019 Paris

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

LUNCH BY THE NUMBERS

Paris,

By Joe Ray

Get there before it’s overrun with ministers.

Maybe because it’s brand new and hasn’t been discovered yet. Maybe it’s because it was a vacation week or just a slow day, but four of us had Le 122, smack in the heart of ministry central to ourselves.

Instead of that depressing, feel bad for the owners, ‘why are we whispering?’ feeling, it was perfect. The chef and his wife came over to talk once in a while and the waiter nosed in with an off the cuff crack that had huge crash and burn potential, but instead, he had read us perfectly.

Chef’s pedigree shows in his fish dishes like a toothy and full of flavor smoked sardine and anise-tomato marmelade appetizer and a cod pissaladière – a Provencal pizza cousin, this one doing a wonderful job of respecting the fish.

We share a Coteaux du Vendomois that Chef calls his wine of the month. It’s made by a friend of his and so good and well-priced, I hope everything on the wine list is made by his friends.

Dessert? Strawberries with a tea foam that sits in a glass bowl and looks like a floating flower.

A friend was supposed to leave early, instead, she asked for another spoon.

Le 122 : 122 rue de Grenelle 75007 Paris Map

Food and travel writer and photographer Joe Ray is the author of the blog Eating The Motherland and contributes to The Boston Globe's travel blog, Globe-trotting.

Kong, only pour la vue...

By François Simon

Granted, Kong has undeniable appeal with its incredible glass-enclosed dining area overlooking Paris and the banks of the Seine – although you’ve got to be seated along the sides (be very sure to specify when making the reservation).  Otherwise, the welcome was a bit cold, the food was fine but rather ordinary (good purée), middling prices – it all works well enough and you wind up with an acceptable evening.  But nothing more.

Kong : 1, rue du Pont neuf, 75001 Paris (01.40.39.09.00). Comptez 60 euros quand même. Map

Photo F Simon

Three star take-out

By Mara Grimm 

A great idea from an even greater chef: Alain Passard of the restaurant L’Arpege (*** Paris) now makes pastry for take-out. We’re not talking about your ordinary tart, but an innovation that has all the potential for becoming a new French classic: tarte aux pommes Bouquet de Roses. This elegant apple tart consists of sliced and blanched strips of apple rolled into the shape of roses and arranged in a thin pastry shell. Each tart is comprised of about 35 flowers, so it actually looks like a real bouquet.  The result is subtle, fresh, light and – thank God – not too sweet. The King of Vegetables himself calls it ‘a tart, a dessert, but also a way to express love’. We just call it the best bouquet of flowers we’ve ever received. How does it work? Just order by phone and pick up your tart 24 hours later. Prices start at €25,-.  www.alain-passard.com

Mara Grimm is the editor of  Holland's biggest restaurant guide: Lekker. She also writes about new restaurants, shops and culinary trends in Delicious Magazine and has a monthly column on kids and food.

10.50 euros at la Vie en Fruits

Paris,

By François Simon

10 euros for lunch : My little promenade continues, this time with a set menu I discovered at La Vie en Fruits (Saint Germain). The lunch set menu at 7.50 euros does the job with a good carrot-apple-ginger juice and this salad with bulgar, carrots and some chicken. A bit filling, to be honest, but it works. I might have gone a little far by taking the dried fruits and nuts (3 euros). In any case, you receive a very warm welcome in this little place. There’s also frozen yogurt with fresh fruit at 3.50 euros and smoothies from 3 euros.

La Vie en Fruits : 116, Boulevard St Germain Tel : 01 46 33 48 18 Map

Photo F Simon

Woo Jung, Korea right in the kisser

Paris,

By François Simon

 This is without doubt one of the best Korean restaurants in Paris, offering a superbly done sea bream with vegetables that's particularly notable. 

It’s a good performance overall, with the exception of the rather stark lighting and slightly staid atmosphere . You’ll find a number of Koreans here (including some of the administrators of the Korean cultural center), which is always a good sign.  But certainly, there are more charming places in Paris.  I'll be following-up for you.... Figure on 40 euros per person.

Woo Jung 8, boulevard Delessert - 75016 Paris. Tél: 01 45 20 72 82 Map

Photo F Simon

10 euros at Rose Bakery II, perfection

Paris,

By François Simon

No kidding, for ten euros, it’s hard to beat Rose Bakery II.  A superb salad bursting with healthful goodness, packed with every salubrious thing that the earth has to offer at the moment. Beautiful vegetables, wholesome and seasoned perfectly, with, as the crowning touch, a dome of rice, peas, and cherry tree blossoms.
 
After that, I left sated (it’s a pretty deep bowl) and content.
 
My advice: as this address has already been discovered, the ideal approach would be to arrive at the very start of the service, because afterwards it gets unbelievably packed.

Rose bakery II, 30 rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris (01.49.96.54.01) Map

Restaurant Paris 3

Photo F Simon 

LEAVE THE WINE. TAKE THE CANNOLI

Paris,

By Joe Ray

A quick pause from Belgian beer to say that when it comes to finding the best Italian in the 11th arrondissement, you win, François.

Last night, taking the advice of locals and friends, a sommelier friend and I went to Casa Vigata for Sicilian on rue Léon Frot for a hit and miss extravaganza.

The hits: The Seafood – a clam and artichoke appetizer full of flavor and sauce made for bread dipping, whole-roasted octopus served with just a slice of lemon and a perfectly-cooked breaded swordfish main. Paris can be disastrous when you’re looking for good fish and these guys nail it.

The Cannoli – Leave the gun. The friendly owner makes these daily using a crispy shell, light, tangy ricotta and just a touch of candied orange peel. If there’s better in Paris I haven’t found it.

The misses:

Consistency: Our neighbors ordered two of the same dishes as we did; their octopus was cooked better (mine was slightly over) and their swordfish/caponata portions were significantly larger. They also got a shot of lemoncello with their check. The last is certainly at the owner’s discretion, but all three together leave a bitter taste.

The worst:

The wine – overpriced and/or not that good. A red Sicilian table wine for 40 euros? I love a good Nero d’Avola, but please. It took us 10 minutes looking at the wine list to essentially decide how we were going to be fleeced and we still lost. My friend was talking about…something when I got distracted by a sip of the white we ordered…

Me: “This is bad.”

Sommelier friend: “Very bad.”

The verdict? I’ll try again in a year. Maybe.

Casa Vigata : 44 rue Léon Frot 75011 Paris +33.1.43.56.38.66 Map 

Caffé dei Cioppi, Italian restaurant of the month !

Paris,

By François Simon

You’re gonna like this one.  If I lived in the neighborhood, I’d keep my own personal napkin ring there (Translator’s note: refers to a now rarely-observed tradition in French restaurants whereby regulars would keep a personal napkin or napkin ring at the establishment, often in little cubby holes along the wall).  Delicious, warm and welcoming, here’s a place that will make you love restaurants again. Take note – it’s not big (it barely seats 15), but in return what a wonderful experience: lamb shoulder with carrots, with the shoulder delicately cooked; the carrots and a few onions accompanying the lamb, and a sauce that doesn’t overwhelm.  Indeed, it’s sufficient to respect a dish, to avoid hounding it, pestering it by adding all sorts of bells and whistles - no, you have to let it express itself, find its own path; what good does it do to interfere?  To over-embellish recipes is nothing but vanity. 

For an appetizer, mozzarella with translucent eggplant.  Frederica and Fabrizio watch over their clients out of the corners of their eyes.  When the lamb shoulder arrives, from off to the side comes the proposal, “You wouldn’t like a little chervil with that?” And bam, just like that a little saucer of freshly-cut chervil appears. 

Count on less than 30 euros per person.

Caffé dei Cioppi, 159, rue du faubourg Saint Antoine, 75011 Paris (01.43.46.10.14). Closed Saturday and Sunday, as well as Monday and Tuesday nights.Map

Photo F Simon

Versailles, Gordon Ramsay's imposture

Paris

By François Simon

I spoke recently in le Figaro about the discrete withdrawal of Gordon Ramsay from Trianon Palace in Versailles.

Did I say withdrawal? Let’s just say that the cooks haven’t seen the London chef very often since his arrival last winter. Not even the day the restaurant was accorded two Michelin stars.

When the Hilton group took over in February, Ramsay gave up his stake and now he only consults! That said, the cuisine isn’t undeserving - the Italian chef is quite competent.

So, the story could be said to have a happy ending. Still, it makes you reflect on the casualness, the cynical commercialism displayed by these chefs who love to preach and hire themselves out as fixers. Gastronomy remains a laugh riot, comical – and that’s why it gives us so much pleasure!

Trianon Palace Versailles : 1 Boulevard de la Reine  •  78000 Versailles Téléphone: (33)(1) 30 84 55 56. Web  Map

Photo F Simon

L'Entétée, a favorite of the foodies

Paris

By François Simon

It’s funny, but new places still regularly manage to slip into the already densely packed lineup of Parisian restaurants. There was Miroir in the 18^th arrondissement, then Glou, at 101, rue Vielle du Temple. 

And now there’s another to take note of : L'Entétée.  A vibrant and smart bistro turning out a feminine cuisine that boasts market-bought products (like this skate salad).  It’s good, and inexpensive (in the 30 euro range).  My recommendation of the day.  There’s a perfect table for four in the back next to the kitchen.  The wine list is rather short, though.

4, rue Danville 75014 Paris, tel : 01 40 47 56 81 Web Map

Ozu, nothing makes sense anymore

Paris

By François Simon

I had been told that Thierry Marx, the famous chef of Cordeillan Bages, was no longer affiliated with Ozu (2, avenue des Nations Unies; 01.40.69.23.90).  But I called his secretary, verified with his employees – he’s still there.  In fact, you’ll even find his name on the sign in the hall with the aquarium.  
 
The space is poorly lit, the lunch clientele seemed a bit uncertain of what they were doing there.  As for the welcome, it was nice enough, cheerful and efficient.  But the food!  Nothing.  Uninventive and uninspired.  I was stupefied.  The salad was unseasoned, the sushi so-so, the miso soup pitiful, the desserts insipid.

Indignation would certainly be in order, but one can only be heartsick in the face of such carelessness….

Ozu : Avenue des Nations Unies, Paris‎ - 01 40 69 23 90‎   Map

Photo F Simon  Restaurant Paris 16

The Crèmerie – I’ve got to stop

Paris

By François Simon

It’s funny. As soon as I like a place, I’ve got to go back and try it again. As if with each new visit, another truth will emerge. This tendency can no doubt be attributed to having lived with an art conservator.

Sometimes when she walked towards a painting, passing through the solvent vapors that hung in the air of the workshop where we lived, beneath one portrait would appear another, perpendicular to an earlobe, or a jewel. It’s a bit similar with a restaurant. At the moment, it’s Crèmerie.

Two times in one week – I promise, I’ll stop. It’s too bad, though – the burata (cow’s milk mozzarella) that will knock your socks off, the lovely Provencal vegetable gratin, the smoked tuna from the Île d'Yeu, the fresh goat cheese of Stéphane Baly, the excellent wines that will have you imbibing without restraint. Nothing complicated.

La Crèmerie 9, rue des Quatre vents, 75006 Paris (01.43.54.99.30). Closed Sunday and Monday. Open from 10am to 10pm.  Web  Map

Restaurants Paris 6

Photo F Simon

 

FAIR VINS AND FOLLOWING SEAS

Paris,

By Joe Ray

Even in Barcelona, word got to me that after decades of running one of my favorite spots for a Paris apéro, Elyette Planchon has hung up her high heels and sold Au Reve, her 18th arrondissement landmark bar, and retired.

For the returning traveler, Elyette and Au Reve were the perfect way to feel back at home in the City of Light. Not for lack of trying, but one of my biggest food regrets in Paris is never having had one of her semi-secret Wednesday lunches.

Sniff!

Instead of crying in my beer, let's raise a glass of wine to Elyette, wish her well, and do as it said on her apron – le geste qui sauve les vignerons* – take a sip. * “The gesture that saves winemakers”

Click here to see my Boston Globe Travel article, “Paris dreams of things to come – after an apéro” which features Elyette and Au Reve

Tourte at Stella Maris and then sleep like a baby

Paris

By François Simon

I’m always a bit wary of returning to “fetish” restaurants.  And I’m especially wary of revisiting certain   dishes, like Tateru Yoshino’s game meat tourte (pie) at Stella Maris (4, rue Arsene-Houssaye, 75008 Paris; 01.42.89.16.22).  Ouf, it made quite an impression with its intense flavors of wild duck, pheasant, venison, foie gras and truffles, and especially the decadent sauce: prepared with red wine, game animal blood, and deer, pheasant, and duck carcasses.  After a meal like that, there’s nothing left to do but sleep like a baby.

Stella Maris : 4, rue Arsene-Houssaye, 75008 Paris. Tel : 01.42.89.16.22

 Map

 

The softness of the twilight: Casa Olympe

Paris

By François Simon

Good God, these pan-fried vegetables with bacon! Best dish of the week, and the crowning moment comes when you lick the casserole dish, the sauce thick and redolent.  This was at Casa Olympe. An impeccable meal that delighted everyone in my party: sole with thyme, scallops, chestnut galette (like a crepe, but made from buckwheat flour)…

48 rue Saint Georges, 75009, Paris Tel : 01.42.85.26.01  Web Map

 Photo François.Simon